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Salt Marsh by Donna Estin
Beyond the Pattern
Winter’s salt marsh provides beautiful contrast to surrounding water and sky, and these complex colors provided the inspiration for Salt Marsh Pullover. Everything about this pullover was a mixture of things: slip stitch mixed with variegated yarn, Merino mixed with yak and silk, and one section of a pattern mixed with bands of another. I mixed up the pattern creation process as well by working with Frank at Phrancko.com for the framework of the construction. And I collaborated with Roni of Inspired Fiberworx who created a brand-new color (Seaway), just for this design.
Sizes
Woman’s M (L, 1X, 2X, 3X)
Finished Measurements
Chest: 37.75 (42, 46.5, 50, 53.75)” (worn with 2” positive ease)
Length: 25.5 (26.5, 28, 29.25, 29.5)”
Materials
Inspired Fiberworx YAK SILK DK (231yds/211m, 100g/3.5oz, 60% Superwash Merino Wool, 20% Yak, 20% Silk): 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) skeins Elphie (MC) (variegated yarn) and 1 skein Seaway (CC) (solid color yarn)
Size 4 (3.5mm) 16” (40cm) and 24” (60cm) circular needles
Size 6 (4mm) 24” (60cm) circular needles and dpns, or preferred needle for working small circumferences, or size needed to obtain gauge
Waste yarn
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Gauge
In Salt st and East/West Wind St on larger needles, 22 sts & 44 rows = 4”/10cm (blocked).
In St st on smaller needles, 22 sts & 28 rows = 4”/10cm (blocked).
To save time, take time to check gauge.
Abbreviations
Rm— Remove marker.
w&t (RS row)—Sl next st pwise wyib, bring yarn to the front, sl same st back to left needle, turn work (yarn will be in back), bring yarn to the front and purl the next st firmly.
w&t (WS row)—Sl next st pwise wyif, take yarn to the back, sl same st back to left needle, turn work (yarn will be in front), take yarn to the back and knit the next st firmly.
To pick up wraps (RS row)—Insert tip of right needle into wrap from front to back, then insert needle into st from front to back. Wrap yarn around needle as if to knit and pull new stitch through.
To pick up wraps (WS row)—Insert tip of right needle from back to front through wrap and place it on left needle. P2tog.
Pick up and purl—With WS facing, insert needle from back to front through the center of the first st, wrap yarn around needle as if to purl, pull through a loop.
Kfbf—Knit into the front, then back, then front of st.
Pfb—Purl into the front and back of st.
Stitch Patterns
Salt Stitch (even number of sts)
Rnd 1: *Sl 1 wyib, k1; rep from *.
Rnd 2: *Sl 1 wyib, p1; rep from *.
Rnds 3–4: Knit.
Rnd 5: *K1, sl 1 wyib; rep from *.
Rnd 6: *P1, sl 1 wyib; rep from *.
Rnds 78: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1–8 for pat.
TECHNICAL TIP—When working East and West Wind Stitches, don’t tug the yarn after slipping the two stitches. Carry the yarn in front of the slipped stitches, then knit the next stitch loosely.
East Wind Stitch (Multiple of 4 sts)
Rnd 1: *Sl 2 wyif, k2; rep from *.
Rnd 2: *K1, sl 2 wyif, k1; rep from *.
Rnd 3: *K2, sl 2 wyif; rep from *.
Rnd 4: *Sl 1 wyif, k2, sl 1 wyif; rep from *.
Rep Rnds 1–4 for pat.
West Wind Stitch (Multiple of 4 sts)
Rnd 1: *K2, sl 2 wyif; rep from *.
Rnd 2: *K1, sl 2 wyif, k1; rep from *.
Rnd 3: *Sl 2 wyif, k2; rep from *.
Rnd 4: *Sl 1 wyif, k2, sl 1 wyif; rep from *.
Rep Rnds 1–4 for pat.
Ridge Stitch
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: *Sl 1 wyib, p1; rep from *.
Rnd 3: *P1, sl 1 wyib; rep from *.
CONSTRUCTION NOTES—Stitches are CO for each shoulder and back is worked top-down. Stitches are picked up along CO edge for front shoulders and front is worked top-down. Body is worked flat, beginning and ending at center front as sleeve caps are gradually built in. When front neck shaping is finished, body and sleeve caps are worked in the round to the underarms. Sleeve stitches are put on hold and body is worked in the round down to bottom edge. Sleeves are worked in the round to the cuff.
DESIGNER NOTE—When working with hand-painted yarns or yarns without dye lots, alternate yarns by working two rows with one ball and the next two rows with a second ball.
Back
With smaller, shorter-length needles and MC, CO 19 (22, 24, 25, 25) sts for the back right shoulder. Place locking st marker on any stitch to identity the right shoulder. Join 2nd ball of yarn and CO 19 (22, 24, 25, 25) sts for the back left shoulder. Using 2 balls of yarn, work both shoulders at the same time.
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Short Row 1 (WS): Purl to end of right shoulder; with next ball, p6 (7, 8, 8, 8) sts, w&t.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck; with next ball k6 (7, 8, 8, 8) sts, w&t.
Short Row 2 (WS): Purl to neck; with next ball p12 (14, 16, 16, 16) sts, picking up wrap, w&t.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck; with next ball, k12 (14, 16, 16, 16) sts, picking up wrap, w&t.
Short Row 3 (WS): Purl to neck; with next ball purl to end, picking up wrap.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck; with next ball knit to end, picking up wrap.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck. Turn. Cable CO 41 (41, 43, 43, 43) sts. Turn. Careful not to twist. Cont with working yarn and knit to end, joining both sides. Cut non-working yarn—79 (85, 91, 93, 93) sts.
Next Row (WS): P19 (22, 24, 25, 25) sts, k41 (41, 43, 43, 43) sts, purl to end.
Beg with a RS row, work 6 rows in St st, ending with a WS row.
Leave sts on needles. Cut yarn.
Front
With WS facing, using smaller, longer-length needles, MC, and CO edge of left shoulder at the top, join yarn and pick up and purl 19 (22, 24, 25, 25) sts along CO edge, join 2nd ball and pick up and purl 19 (22, 24, 25, 25) sts for right shoulder. Using 2 balls of yarn, work both shoulders at the same time.
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Short Row 1 (WS): Purl to neck; with next ball, p6 (7, 8, 8, 8) sts, w&t.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck; with next ball, k6 (7, 8, 8, 8) sts, w&t.
Short Row 2 (WS): Purl to neck; with next ball p12 (14, 16, 16,16) sts, picking up wrap, w&t.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck; with next ball, k12 (14, 16, 16, 16) sts, picking up wrap, w&t.
Short Row 3 (WS): Purl to neck; with next ball purl to end, picking up wrap.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck; with next ball knit to end, picking up wrap.
Beg with a WS row, work 9 rows in St st.
CONSTRUCTION NOTE—Front neck shaping begins and continues until both front shoulders are joined. AT THE SAME TIME, begin shaping sleeve caps.
Join Fronts and Back (RS): Knit to neck; with next ball knit to last 2 sts, *ssk, do not turn work, pm, pick up and knit 16 sts evenly across selvedge edge for sleeve cap, pm, k2tog**, knit across back sts to 2 sts before end; rep from * to **, knit to end—145 (157, 167, 171, 171) total sts: 77 (83, 89, 91, 91) sts for back, 18 (21, 23, 24, 24) each front, 16 sts each sleeve. Rows begin and end at the center of front neck.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): Kfb, *knit to marker, sm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm, rep from * once, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1—6 sts inc’d: 77 (83, 89, 91, 91) sts back, 19 (22, 24, 25, 25) sts each front, 18 sts each sleeve.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): *Kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm, knit across sleeve to marker, sm; k38 (41, 44, 45, 45) sts, kfb, knit to marker, knit across sleeve to marker, sm, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1—5 sts inc’d: 78 (84, 90, 92, 92) sts back, 21 (24, 26, 27, 27) sts each front, 18 sts each sleeve.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Sleeve Inc Row (RS): Kfb, *knit to marker, sm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm; rep from *, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1—1 st inc’d each front, 2 sts inc’d each sleeve.
Next Row (WS): Pfb, purl to last 2 sts, pfb, p1.
Rep last 2 rows once—25 (28, 30, 31, 31) sts each front, 22 sts for each sleeve.
Next Row (RS): Cable CO 3 sts, knit to marker, sm, *kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm; rep from * once, knit to end—24 sts each sleeve.
Next Row (WS): Cable CO 3 sts, purl to end—28 (31, 33, 34, 34 sts) each front.
Joining Row (RS): Knit to end, turn, Cable CO 22 (22, 24, 24, 24) sts, turn, knit to marker, replace marker with unique marker for BOR—78 (84, 90, 92, 92) sts each front and back, 204 (216, 228, 232, 232) total sts.
DESIGNER NOTE—In order to maintain pat when increasing, it’s helpful to place a locking stitch marker on the first slipped stitch after each marker. When working Row 1 or 5 of the chart, knit the slipped stitch and slip the knit stitch.
Next Rnd: With larger circular needles, work Rnd 1 of Salt st to marker, sm, *beg with st 1 again, work in Salt st to marker, sm, rep from * to end.
Next Rnd: Work Rnd 2 of Salt st.
Next Rnd: Beg with Rnd 3 of Salt st, work Sleeve Inc Rnd, listed below, every 4 rnds 3 (1, 1, 1, 1) times, then every 8 (6, 6, 6, 6) rnds 3 (4, 3, 3, 3) times, then every 5 (10, 10, 10, 10) rnds 5 (2, 3, 2, 2) times, then every 6 rnds 0 (4, 4, 4, 4) times, then every 4 rnds 0 (0, 0, 3, 3) times—46 (46, 46, 50, 50) sts each sleeve.
Sleeve Inc Rnd: *Kfb, work in pat to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm, work in pat to marker, sm, rep from * once.
Size 1X Only
Next Rnd (Double Sleeve Inc Rnd): Kfbf, work in pat to 2 sts before marker, kfbf, k1, sm, work in pat to marker, sm, rep from * once—46 (46, 48, 50, 50) sts each sleeve.
Sizes 2X and 3X Only
Work 1 rnd even.
Body and Sleeve Inc Rnd
*Kfb, work in pat to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, sm; rep from * 3 more times to end.
Rep last rnd, every rnd, 4 (5, 6, 8, 11) more times—56 (58, 62, 68, 74) sts each sleeve, 88 (96, 104, 110, 116) each front and back.
Double Sleeve/Single Body Inc Rnd
*Kfbf, work in pat to 2 sts before marker, kfbf, k1, sm, kfb, work in pat to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1; rep from * once.
Rep last rnd once—64 (66, 70, 76, 82) sts each sleeve, 92 (100, 108, 114, 120) each front and back. Make a note of last rnd worked.
Separate sleeves from body by transferring 64 (66, 70, 76, 82) sleeve sts to waste yarn, rm, turn, Cable CO 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts, pm, Cable CO 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts, turn, rm, work in pat across body to marker, transfer 64 (66, 70, 76, 82) sleeve sts to waste yarn, rm, turn, Cable CO 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) sts, turn, rm, work in pat to end—208 (232, 256, 276, 296) total sts.
Body
Cont to work Salt st in the rnd for 4 (4.5, 5, 5, 5)”, ending with Rnd 6.
Next 3 Rnds: With CC, work Ridge st.
Next Rnd: With MC, knit.
Next 8 Rnds: Work East Wind st.
Next 8 Rnds: Work West Wind st.
Next 3 Rnds: With CC, work Ridge st.
Next Rnd: With MC, work in St st for 1”, then begin hip shaping.
Hip Shaping
Next Rnd: K104 (116, 128, 138, 148) sts, pm, knit to end.
Inc Rnd: *K1, M1R, knit st 1 st before marker, M1L, k1, sm; rep from *.
Cont to work in St st and rep Inc Rnd every 3” twice—220 (244, 268, 288, 308) sts.
Work even until body measures 15 (15, 16, 17, 17)” from underarm.
Beg with the next rnd, purl 3 rnds. BO all sts pwise.
DESIGNER NOTE—Before beginning sleeves, refer to notes for last round worked of Salt stitch.
Sleeves
Return 64 (66, 70, 76, 82) sts held for one sleeve to dpns. Beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts across underarm, pick up 1 st at join and place on left needle, work this st together with first st on dpn as you cont with next rnd of Salt st to end, pick up 1 st at join and place on right needle, pick up 1 st from underarm, slip st from right to left needle, k2tog, pick up and knit rem 5 (7, 9, 11, 13) sts across underarm, pm, join in the rnd and distribute sts evenly on dpns—76 (82, 90, 100, 110) sts.
DESIGNER NOTE—Salt Stitch pattern should be continued from the pattern established on the sleeve stitches. It will not be a continuation from the underarm stitches.
Cont in est Salt st for 1”, ending with Rnd 2 or 6.
Dec Rnd: K2tog, work in pat to last 2, ssk.
Rep Dec Rnd every 16 (13, 10, 8, 6) rnds 3 (12, 4, 12, 6) times, then every 17 (0, 11, 9, 7) rnds 6 (0, 10, 7, 18) times—56 (56, 60, 60, 60) sts.
TECHNICAL TIP—As you decrease, work stitches that cannot be worked into pattern in stockinette.
AT THE SAME TIME, alternate textured bands as follows:
Next 3 Rnds: With CC, work Ridge st.
Next 8 Rnds: Work East Wind (for Left Sleeve) or West Wind (for Right Sleeve).
Next 3 Rnds: Work Ridge st.
Next Rnd: With MC, work Salt st for 6 (6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.5)”, ending with Rnd 2 or 6.
Next 3 Rnds: With CC, work Ridge st.
Next 8 Rnds: Work West Wind (for Left Sleeve) or East Wind (for Right Sleeve).
Next 3 Rnds: Work Ridge st.
Next Rnd: With MC, work Salt st for 6 (6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.5)”, or until sleeve measures 15.5 (15.5, 15.5, 16, 16)” or 1.5” less than desired length, ending with Rnd 2 or 6.
Next 3 Rnds: With CC, work Ridge st.
Next 12 Rnds: Work East Wind (for Left Sleeve) or West Wind (for Right Sleeve).
BO all sts pwise.
Finishing
Neckband: With smaller, shorter circular needles, CC, and RS facing, beg at left shoulder and pick up and knit 18 sts along left neck edge, 22 (22, 24, 24, 24) sts along center front, 18 sts to right shoulder, 5 sts along back neck drop, 41 (41, 43, 43, 43) sts along center back, 5 sts to end, pm, join in the rnd—109 (109, 113, 113, 113) sts.
Next Rnd: Purl.
Next Rnd: Knit.
Next Rnd: BO all sts pwise.
Weave in ends. Block to measurements in schematic and pin bottom of body with edge curled under.
Copyright 2022, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Winter 2021-2022, All Rights Reserved
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