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Firm Bind Offs by Heather Storta
Special Topics in Finishing Spring 2026
Typically, knitters are looking for elastic bind offs when searching for a specific bind off. But there are some situations where a firm bind off would be desired. We have a few options when it comes to a firm bind off.
Adjusting a Standard Bind Off
The standard bind off tends to be tight by default due to the structure of the knitting. Stitches are wider than they are tall; and when we bind off, we are placing stitches on their sides, expecting their heights (which are short) to span their widths (which are wider). Because they are shorter by nature, the bind off will be tighter and not as wide as the stitches want to be. So a standard bind off might be as firm as you desire. You can also try going down a needle size or two to make it even more firm.
But if you need something sturdier and firmer, there are a few options for different bind offs to try.
Firm Bind Offs
Braided Rib Bind Off
This is a variation on the standard bind off which produces a thick and durable edge.
How to Work
Join a second strand of your working yarn, leaving a tail. You will use both together as the working yarn for the bind off.
Purl 2 sts. With the LH needle, lift the second RH st over the first, binding one st off (treating each doubled st as a single stitch.) *P1, BO 1. Repeat from * until all sts are bound off.
One-Over-Two Bind Off
This is another variation on the standard bind off. This bind off works well for preventing cable flare in all-over cable patterns, or in tubular and double knitting. It also is a great way to gather an edge when you want to create a ruffled edge. This edge is very tight.
How to Work
K3, then with the LH needle tip, take the first RH stitch over the last 2 RH sts and off the needle. *K1, then use the LH needle tip to pass the first RH st over the other two RH sts and off the needle. Repeat from * until 2 sts remain. BO the last st normally.
See this video.
Note: When alternating colors are used in the row before the bind off and in the bind-off row, this is called a Double Stitch Bind Off.
Two-Row Bind Off
This bind off produces a line of large chains along the edge with holes underneath, which can be used to apply a fringe. While it works in stockinette fabrics, it looks good in 1×1 ribbings, as seen here. This edge tends to be very tight.
How to Work
*K1, p1, with the LH needle tip, lift the second st from the end on the RH needle over the last st and off (binding it off.) Repeat from * across the row. Half the stitches have been bound off, every other stitch. Break yarn, leaving a tail.
Turn work. Slip two sts from the LH needle to the RH needle as if to purl, then use the LH needle to pass the second st over the last st. *Slip the next st then pass the first st over. Rep from * until one st remains. Using a tapestry needle and some scrap yarn, tack down the last live stitch.
See this video.
Without-Knitting Bind Off
This is a method of binding off that is commonly used in horizontal buttonholes. You will use no working yarn to complete the bind off. This bind off can be tight, and there is no real option for adjusting the tension (besides working the last worked row at a tighter or looser gauge).
How to Work
Slip the first two sts to the RH needle. Pass the first st over the second. *Slip the next st to the RH needle, pass the first st over the second. Repeat from * until all sts have been bound off. The last stitch will need to be tacked down and secured with a piece of waste yarn.
Roped Cable Bind Off
I was looking for a bind off that matched the doubled cable cast on in appearance and firmness and couldn’t find anything that really satisfied me. So, I played around with yarn and needles and came up with this bind off. It might already exist somewhere, but I couldn’t find it in any of my references, so I’ve called it a Roped Cable bind off here. Using larger needles than your working needles helps, and you will need a cable needle to work this bind off. I also find that using grippy knitting needles, such as bamboo or plastic, helps as well, as the stitches really want to slide off the needles and be uncooperative. (This is the bind off I used in the pattern that accompanies this article.)
How to Work
Cast on one stitch to LH needle using backwards loop CO. Then, *k1, slip 1 st to cable needle and hold to back. Slip next LH needle st knitwise to RH needle, then slip both RH sts back purlwise and k2tog tbl. Pass RH st back to LH needle purlwise. Move working yarn behind cable needle and slip cable needle st to LH needle purlwise. Repeat from * until 2 sts remain. K2tog tbl to end. Cut yarn and pull tail through. Weave tail through RS to WS below corner to maintain a crisp corner before weaving in the end.
See this video.
Some Other Options
Consider using an I-cord bind off. Or use a folded hem treatment along the edge and encase a drawstring or ribbon. For further reinforcement and added firmness, you could consider sewing on a ribbon to the wrong side of the fabric along the edge. Another option would be to add a crocheted edge afterwards for firmness and reinforcement.
Conclusion
When a firm bind off with no stretch is desired, there are several options out there to choose from. Make sure to work a gauge swatch to test out your choice to be sure it is the most appropriate option.
Bibliography
Bestor, Leslie Ann. Cast On, Bind Off. Storey Publishing, 2012.
Hiatt, June Hemmons. The Principles of Knitting. Touchstone, 2012.
Sease, Cap. Cast On, Bind Off. Martingale, 2012.
Stanley, Montse. Reader’s Digest Knitter’s Handbook. Reader’s Digest, 2001.
Pattern Associated with Article —Lattice Placemats
Copyright 2026, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Spring 2026, All Rights Reserved
