Chatelain by Donna Estin

Chatelain by Donna Estin

Beyond the Pattern

Inspired by the Art Nouveau neighborhood of Brussels, Chatelain uses curving lines to form cabled circles and cascading lace in this standard-fitting pullover. The focus of this pullover is to illustrate bust and waist shaping, and two different ways of shaping are used in this design: at the sides and along dart lines. Body and set-in sleeves are worked flat from the bottom up and seamed. A wide band of ribbing finishes the neckline. Please see article “Bust and Waist Shaping” for additional instructions on how to add bust darts for more room at the bust.

Sizes

S (M, L, 1X) [2X, 3X, 4X]

Finished Measurements

Bust circumference: 36 (40, 44, 48) [52, 56, 60]”
Intended to be worn with 0–1” positive ease
Overall Length: 23.75 (24.75, 25.25, 26.25) [26.75, 27.75, 28.25]”

Materials

Manos del Uruguay SILK BLEND DK (150yds/135m, 50g/1.75oz, 70% Merino Wool, 30% Silk): 9 (11, 12, 13) [14, 15, 17) skeins #SB3241 Fruit Punch
Size 3 (3.25mm) 16” (40cm) circular needle, or one size smaller than gauge needle
Size 4 (3.5mm) needle or size needed to obtain gauge
Cable needle
Stitch holder
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Gauge

In Chart A over larger needle, one 4-st panel = 0.75”/2cm, after blocking.
In Chart B over larger needle, one 15-st st panel = 1.75”/4.5 cm, after blocking.
In rev St st, 24 sts & 38 rows = 4”/10cm with larger needles, after blocking.
To save time, take time to check gauge.

Abbreviations

1/1 LPT—Sl next st to cn, hold at front, p1, then k1 tbl from cn.
1/1 RPT—Sl next st to cn, hold at back, k1 tbl, then p1 from cn.
3/1/3 LPC—Sl 4 sts to cn, hold at front, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, slip last st on cn to left needle and purl it, then k1 tbl p1, k1 tbl the rem 3 sts from cn.

Stitch Patterns

2×2 Rib (even number of sts)

Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from *.
Rep Row 1 for pat.

Chart A—see chart.
Chart B—see chart.

DESIGNER NOTES—When working with yarns without dye lots, alternate yarns by working 2 rows with one ball then the next 2 rows with a second ball.

When making a yarn over before a purl stitch, (end of Row 5 of Chart A), bring the yarn to the front, then over the needle and back to the front to position the yarn to work the purl stitch.

Only count stitches at the end of Rows 1, 5, or 6 of Chart A.

Back

With larger needles, CO 154 (170, 186, 202) [218, 234, 250] sts.

Next Row (RS): K1 (selvedge), work in 2×2 Rib to last st, k1 (selvedge). Maintaining first and last st in St st for selvedges, cont to work as est until ribbing measures 1.75”, ending with a RS row.

Dec Row (WS): Work in pat and dec 17 (13, 17, 19) [15, 21, 17] sts evenly across, working decs as k2tog in the 2-st knit columns—137 (157, 169, 183) [203, 213, 233] sts.

DESIGNER NOTE—Chart A is worked on a background of knit stitches and Chart B on a background of purl stitches. This allows you to easily see where one chart ends and one begins in your knitting without using markers between charts. You will add 2 markers on the setup row to mark dart lines for the decreases for waist shaping. If you wish to use other markers to separate patterns, use a different color than the dart line markers.

Size S Only

Setup Row (RS): P14, work Row 1 of charts as foll: Chart A over 4 sts, Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts, pm, p5, (Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts) twice, Chart B over 15 sts, p5, pm, Chart A over 4 sts, Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts, p14.

Sizes – (M, L, –) [2X, –, –] Only

Setup Row (RS): P – (9, 15, –) [13, –, –], work Row 1 of charts as foll: (Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts) – (2, 2, –) [3, –, –] times, pm, p5, (Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts) twice, Chart B over 15 sts, p5, pm, (Chart A over 4 sts, Chart B over 15 sts) – (2, 2, –) [3, –, –] times, p – (9, 15, –) [13, –, –].

Sizes – (–, –, 1X) [–, 3X, –] Only

Setup Row (RS): P – (–, –, 18) [–, 14, –], work Row 1 of charts as foll: Chart A over 4 sts, (Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts) – (–, –, 2) [–, 3, –] times, pm, p5, (Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts) twice, Chart B over 15 sts, p5, pm, (Chart A over 4 sts, Chart B over 15 sts) – (–, –, 2) [–, 3, –] times, Chart A over 4 sts, p – (–, –, 18) [–, 14, –].

Size 4X Only

Setup Row (RS): P9, work Row 1 of charts as foll: (Chart B over 15 sts, Chart A over 4 sts) 3 times, pm, p5, (Chart B over 15 sts, A over 4 sts) 4 times, Chart B over 15 sts, p5, pm, (Chart A over 4 sts, Chart B over 15 sts) 3 times, p9.

All Sizes

Next Row (WS): K14 (9, 15, 18) [13, 14, 9], work Row 2 of charts to marker, sm, k5, work in pat to 5 sts before marker, k5, sm, work in pat to last 14 (9, 15, 18) [13, 14, 9] sts, knit to end.

Shape Waist

Dec Row (RS): P2, p2tog, work in pat to marker, sm, p2tog, *work in pat to 2 sts before next marker, p2tog, sm, work in pat to last 4 sts, p2tog, p2—4 sts dec’d.

Maintaining all sts not in charts in rev St st, cont to work as est and Rep Dec Row every 16th (18th, 18th, 20th) [20th, 22nd, 22nd] row 4 more times—117 (137, 149, 163) [183, 193, 213] sts.

DESIGNER NOTE—On the last dec, you’ll work the p2tog with 1 st from Chart B.

Remove markers and work even for 10 (10, 12, 10) [12, 14, 14] rows, or until piece measures 8.75 (9.5, 9.75, 10.5) [10.75, 11.75, 11.75]” from CO edge, ending with a RS Row.

Adjust Markers for Bust Shaping

Next Row (WS): K9 (4, 10, 13) [8, 9, 4] sts, pm, work in pat to last 9 (4, 10, 13) [8, 9, 4] sts, pm, knit to end.

Shape Bust

Inc Row (RS): P1, pfb, purl to 2 sts before marker, pfb, p1, sm, work in pat to marker, sm, pfb, purl to last 3 sts, pfb, p2—4 sts inc’d.

Rep Inc Row every 24 (24, 22, 20) [18, 14, 14]th row 2 more times, working incs into rev St st—129 (149, 161, 175) [195, 205, 225] sts. Remove markers on next row.

Work even until piece measures 16 (16.5, 16.5, 17) [17, 17.5, 17.5]” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

DESIGNER NOTE—When you begin binding off over Chart A, end chart and work the 4 chart stitches in stockinette. If the last row worked was Row 2, 3, or 4, return stitch count to 4 sts by working a yarn over at the end of the next row.

Shape Armholes

BO 5 (10, 11, 12) [14, 15, 16] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 4 sts at the beg of the next 2 (2, 2, 4) [4, 6, 12] rows, BO 2 sts at the beg of the next 4 (6, 8, 8) [10, 10, 6] rows—103 (109, 115, 119) [131, 131, 133] sts.

Next Row (RS): P2 (5, 8, 10) [1, 1, 2], work in pat to last 2 (5, 8, 10) [1, 1, 2] sts, purl to end. Maintaining sts outside of charts in rev St st, cont to work as est until armhole measures 5.75 (6.25, 6.75, 7.25) [7.75, 8.25, 8.75]”, ending with Row 5.

Next Row (WS): Work in pat across 11 (13, 15, 15) [20, 20, 20] sts, pm, work in pat to end.

Shape Neck

Next Row (RS): Work in pat across 11 (13, 15, 15) [20, 20, 20] sts and place sts just worked on st holder for right shoulder. BO in pat all sts to marker and (p2tog) twice in the center of each Chart B during BO, remove marker, work in pat to end.

TECHNICAL TIP—When there aren’t enough stitches to continue in pattern, work stitches in stockinette for Chart A and reverse stockinette for Chart B.

Working on just left shoulder, cont to work in pat for 2”, ending with Row 6. BO all sts in pat. Rejoin yarn with WS facing for right shoulder. Work in pat until same length as left shoulder. BO all sts in pat.

Front

Work as for back until armhole measures 3.75 (4.25, 4.75, 5.25) [5.75, 6.25, 6.75]”, ending with Row 5.

Next Row (WS): Work in pat across 25 (28, 31, 31) [35, 35, 35] sts, pm, work in pat to end.

Shape Neck

Next Row (RS): Work in pat across 25 (28, 31, 31) [35, 35, 35] sts and place sts just worked on st holder for left shoulder. BO in pat all sts to marker and (p2tog) twice in the center of each Chart B during BO, remove marker, BO last st on right needle, k3 (3, 3, 1) [0, 0, 0], work in pat to end—25 (28, 31, 31) [35, 35, 35] sts rem per shoulder. Working on just right shoulder, work 1 WS row to last 4 (4, 4, 2) [0, 0, 0] sts, purl to end.

TECHNICAL TIP—When there aren’t enough stitches to continue in pattern, work stitches in stockinette for Chart A and reverse stockinette for Chart B.

At the beg of each RS row, BO 4 sts once, BO 3 sts 3 times, then BO 1 (2, 3, 3) [2, 2, 2] sts once—11 (13, 15, 15) [20, 20, 20] sts. Cont to work in pat until armhole measures same as back, ending with Row 6. BO all sts in pat.

Rejoin yarn with WS facing for left shoulder. At the beg of each WS row, BO 4 sts once, 3 sts 3 times, then BO 1 (2, 3, 3) [2, 2, 2] sts once—11 (13, 15, 15) [20, 20, 20] sts. Cont to work in pat until armhole measures same as back, ending with Row 6. BO all sts in pat.

Sleeves (Make 2 alike)

With larger needles, CO 50 (50, 52, 52) [56, 56, 56] sts.

Next Row (RS): K0 (0, 0, 0) [2, 2, 2], p2 (2, 3, 3) [3, 3, 3], (work Chart A over 4 sts, p3) 6 times, work Chart A over 4 sts, p2 (2, 3, 3) [3, 3, 3], k0 (0, 0, 0) [2, 2, 2].

Maintaining all sts outside of charts in rev St st, cont to work as est until cuff measures 3”, ending with a WS row.

DESIGNER NOTE—For sizes 2X, 3X, and 4X only, for the first 3 increases, new stitches will be incorporated into Chart A. Work these increases as kfb.

Inc Row (RS): Pfb (or kfb), work in pat to last 2 sts, pfb (or kfb), p1—2 sts inc’d.

Sizes 2X, 3X, and 4X Only

Rep Inc Row every [6, 6, 4]th row twice, working incs into Chart A when possible—62 sts.

All Sizes

Rep Inc Row every 12 (10, 10, 8) [6, 6, 4]th row 4 (9, 5, 7) [16, 6, 30] times, then every 10 (8, 8, 6) [4, 4, 0]th row 7 (4, 9, 12) [5, 20, 0] times, working incs into rev St st—74 (78, 82, 92) [104, 114, 122] sts.

Work even until sleeve measures 17 (17.5, 17.5, 18) [18, 18, 18.5]”, or to desired length, ending with a WS row.

DESIGNER NOTE—Once blocked, the sleeve length will shorten as the stitch pattern opens up. Measure length by counting rows based on the row gauge of your blocked swatch.

Shape Sleeve Cap

DESIGNER NOTE—When you begin binding off over Chart A, end chart and work the 4 chart stitches in reverse stockinette. If the last row worked was Row 2, 3, or 4, return stitch count to 4 stitches by working a yarn over at the end of the next row.

BO 5 (10, 11, 12) [14, 15, 16] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, 4 sts at the beg of the next 2 (0, 0, 0) [2, 2, 2] rows, 1 st at the beg of the next 6 (2, 2, 8) [4, 12, 20] rows—50 (56, 58, 60) [64, 64, 62] sts.

Work 2 rows even.
BO 1 st at the beg of the next 2 rows—48 (54, 56, 58) [62, 62, 60] sts.

Rep last 4 rows 10 (12, 13, 12) [13, 12, 10] more times—28 (30, 30, 34) [36, 38, 40] sts.

BO 3 sts at the beg of the next 4 rows. BO rem 16 (18, 18, 22) [24, 26, 28] sts.

Finishing

Weave in yarn ends. Block pieces to schematic measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams.

Neckband

With smaller circular needles and RS facing, beg at left shoulder seam and pu and knit 176 (180, 184, 188) [192, 192, 192] sts evenly around neckline, pm, join in the rnd.

Work in 2×2 Rib until ribbing measures 2”. BO all sts in pat. Weave in ends.



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