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Yarn Overs in Creating Lace by Debbie West
Stitch Anatomy Spring 2023
Creating the Yarn Over
The yarn over creates a new stitch with a hole below it. The yarn over is created by taking the working yarn from the front of the work, over the right needle, to the back of the work. On the next row, the yarn over is worked as a regular stitch according to the pattern. In order to create a yarn over, the position of the working yarn must be adjusted depending on the stitch worked just prior to the placement of the yarn over (yo) and then positioned correctly for the stitch that will follow.
Knit-YO-Knit
If one is working a yo between two knit stitches, the working yarn is at the back of the work after the knit stitch and must be brought forward between the two needles. The yo is then created by taking the working yarn from the front of the work, over the right needle, to the back of the work. The working yarn is then at the back of the work, ready for the next knit stitch.
Purl-YO-Purl
When creating a yo between two purl stitches, the working yarn is at the front of the work after the purl stitch. Take the working yarn from the front of the work, over the right needle to the back of the work creating the yo. The working yarn must then be brought between the two needles to the front of the work for the next purl stitch.
Knit-YO-Purl
If the yo is worked after a knit stitch and before a purl stitch, the working yarn is at the back of the work after the knit stitch and must first be brought to the front between the two needles. The yo is then created by taking the working yarn from the front of the work, over the right needle, to the back of the work. The working yarn must then be brought to the front between the two needles in order to work the following purl stitch.
Purl-YO-Knit
When the yo is worked after a purl stitch and before a knit stitch, the working yarn is in the front after the purl stitch. Take the working yarn from the front of the work, over the right needle, to the back of the work, creating the yo. The working yarn is then at the back of the work, ready for the next knit stitch. The working yarn does not have to be adjusted for this combination.
Note that in each scenario, the yo is created exactly the same way: the working yarn is taken from the front of the work, over the right needle to the back of the work. The newly created stitch has the correct (Western) stitch mount with the leading leg of the stitch on the front side of the needle. Note that the stitch worked before and after the yo are NOT included in the directions for the yarn over.
A slightly smaller hole can be created if the yo is worked by taking the yarn from the back of the work over the right needle to the front of the work. This creates a new stitch with a backward mount such that the leading leg is at the back of the work. On the next row the mount must be corrected by working into the back of the stitch. This uses slightly less yarn so the resulting hole is smaller.
Eyelet Pattern
To create eyelet and lace patterns, the yo is paired with a decrease. Eyelet patterns use the background stitch pattern as the determinant of gauge. The fabric gauge would be the same whether or not the eyelet pattern is present. The position of the yo and the corresponding decrease affects the shape of the hole created by the yo as well as the overall look of the pattern. The decrease can be a right-leaning decrease (k2tog, for example), worked either before or after the yo, or a left-leaning decrease (ssk, for example), worked before or after the yo.
Looking at Figure 1, on the bottom right is a k2tog, yo. Notice how the k2tog interrupts the column of stitches to the right. This will create a chain when worked in subsequent rows and shifted one stitch to the right. On the bottom left, the eyelet is created by working a yo, k2tog. The column of stitches to the left is continuous, and the decreased stitch is underneath the column. The top right is worked as ssk, yo, and the top left is worked as yo, ssk. The chain effect and smooth effect are opposite.
What makes the yarn over so amazing is how it is paired with the corresponding decrease. In simple eyelet patterns, the decrease is right next to the yo. When a yo/decrease combination is worked horizontally, a line of holes is created across the knitting. When the yo/decrease combination is stacked vertically, a vertical line of holes is created. If the yo/decrease combination is staggered by one stitch horizontally on subsequent rows, a diagonal line of holes is formed. When the yo/decrease combination is worked as an all-over pattern, the resultant fabric is a mesh pattern.
The horizontal row of holes at the bottom was created by working (yo, ssk) across the row. The right vertical column of holes was created by working (k2tog, yo) on every right-side row over the same set of two stitches. The vertical column of holes on the left was worked the same except the k2tog was worked after the yo. The right diagonal was worked by knitting a yo, k2tog on the RS row. On the next RS row, the yo was worked one stitch sooner and the k2tog was worked with the new stitch created by the yo from the previous RS row and the stitch to the left of it. Note how the holes in this diagonal are smaller (compressed) and have a large bar between each yo. There is essentially a stitch separating each yo. Contrast this with the diagonal on the left. It was worked by knitting a k2tog followed by a yo. The k2tog creates a chain under the diagonal of yarn overs. There are just two strands between each yo and the holes are bigger (open). There are eight such combination that all look different although the four right-decrease combinations will mirror the four left-decrease combinations. Leslie Gonzales has an excellent article on this (see Bibliography below).
Lace Knitting
To create even more intricate patterns, the yo can be separated from its corresponding decrease, and lace is formed. When the decreases are stacked on top of each other, the fabric will bow outward forming a scallop. The Feather and Fan—or Old Shale—pattern is the quintessential example of lace knitting.
Knitted Lace
Lace knitting is distinguished from knitted lace by the wrong-side rows. In lace knitting, the wrong-side rows are worked as purl rows for a stockinette background or as knit rows for a garter stitch background. Knitted lace has yo’s and decreases worked on every row. Faggoting is the simplest example. Faggoting is created by stacking the yo/decrease on every row. Lace knitting will have two strands between the yo and the subsequent yo on the next row, and knitted lace will have only one strand. The single strand is marked with blue yarn on the Faggoting pattern, and the double strand is marked with red yarn on the diagonal eyelets in Figure 5.
The possibilities then become endless. A yo can be worked without a corresponding decrease, and the stitch count will increase by one. Decreases can be worked on a different row to return the stitch count to the original number—or not. Decreases can also be worked without a corresponding yo in a given row, decreasing the stitch count by one. And then there are double decreases and double yarn-over patterns as well.
Written Lace Patterns
When lace directions are written, the pattern repeat is usually identified by asterisks; for example, *K1, yo; rep from *. This means to k1, then create a yo and repeat these two stitches over and over across the row or round. The importance of not including the stitch worked after the yo in the directions for the yarn over can be explained with this example. If you work k1 and then work a yo with the following knit stitch, you will actually be working: K1, yo, k1, which uses two stitches and makes one, instead of using only one stitch and making one. If you use two stitches when the pattern expects you to use one, you will run out of stitches.
Most lace needs to be balanced, so some stitches will be worked either before and/or after the pattern repeat within the asterisks. Using Row 8 of Faggoting and Fussy Rib (see Fig. 6) as an example: Ssk, yo, k2, *k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k2; rep from *. In this example, work the ssk, yarn over, and knit two are worked one time, then the stitches between the asterisks are worked over and over across the row or round. The good thing about written lace directions is that clarification when a stitch is created—or the stitch count changes—is unnecessary, although sometimes helpful. Just work each row as written. The written instructions for lace can be very lengthy, and it is easy to lose track of where in the sequence you are.
Faggoting and Fussy Rib (multiple of 8 sts + 4)
Row 1 (WS) and all WS rows: *P2tog, yo, p6; rep from * to last 4 sts, p2tog, yo, p2.
Row 2 (RS): Ssk, yo, k2, *yo, ssk, k2, ssk, yo, k2; rep from *.
Row 4: Ssk, yo, k2, *k1, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, yo, k2; rep from *.
Row 6: Ssk, yo, k2, *k2, yo, ssk twice, yo, k2; rep from *.
Row 8: Ssk, yo, k2, *k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k2; rep from *.
Rep Rows 1–8 for pat.
Charted Lace Patterns
Charts are visual representations of the stitches the knitter is to use across the row or round while providing a picture of what the lace will look like on the right side of the work. Each block on the chart represents one stitch on the needles. Charts are read as if you were knitting: right-side rows are read from right to left, and wrong-side rows are read from left to right. It is very important to remember that the visual presentation is for right-side rows. Therefore, when working wrong-side rows, the symbols represent what the stitch will look like on the right side. For example, a dot usually represents a purl stitch on the right side of the work. When working wrong-side rows, this same “dot” will be worked as a knit stitch to create the purl stitch on the right side of the work. See Feather and Fan chart (see Fig. 7), Row 4. Charts are read from bottom to top, just as you knit. A chart will come with a legend or key that explains what each symbol represents. Generally, if the first row is represented by a “1” on the lower right corner of the chart, the chart starts with a right-side row. If the “1” is at the lower left corner of the chart, the chart starts with a wrong-side row.
Feather and Fan (multiple of 18 sts)
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: *K2tog three times, (yo, k1) six times, k2tog three times; rep from *.
Row 4: Knit.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pat.
In lace knitting, charts are sometimes represented with just right-side rows. The wrong-side rows will be defined as either knit rows or purl rows in the written directions. Such an abbreviated chart takes less room but still is a visual representation of what the pattern will look like. Rarely, charts are done “as is knit” and these are not visual representations but what is actually worked. The key or pattern notes should clarify this.
When lace is charted, the repeat is most often outlined in red or bold lines. The same stitches that are between the asterisks on the written directions will be within the red-lined repeat markers on the chart. In some patterns, the stitch count changes from row-to-row. When the stitch count goes down, a gray box will represent a “no stitch.” The “no stitch” is a marker just to keep the chart columns even. It is not included in the stitch count and no action is taken while knitting. Where the “no stitch” is placed within the repeat is best done where it will visually maintain the pattern.
Flambe Lace (st count varies)
Row 1 (RS): *(K2tog, yo) three times, [(k1, yo) three times, k1] in one stitch, (ssk, yo) twice, ssk; rep from *. (18 sts)
Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl.
Rows 3 and 5: *(K2tog, yo) three times, k6, (yo, ssk) three times; rep from *.
Row 7: *(K2tog, yo) three times, ssk, k2, k2tog, (yo, ssk) three times; rep from *. (16 sts)
Row 9: *(K2tog, yo) three times, ssk, k2tog, (yo, ssk) three times; rep from *. (14 sts)
Row 11: *(K2tog, yo) three times, k2tog, (yo, ssk) three times; rep from *. (13 sts)
Row 13: *(K2tog, yo) three times, k1, (yo, ssk) three times; rep from *.
Row 14: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 1–14 for pat.
When a multiple ends with a decrease, often one of the stitches will come from the next multiple. When this happens, you will have to take your marker out, work the decrease, and then place the marker back on the right needle AFTER the decrease. This will keep the number of stitches correct in each multiple.
Another complication of chart reading occurs when there are two different repeats within a pattern. The most common example would be a triangular shawl with a center panel. The center panel would have one repeated pattern, and the wings on either side would have another pattern repeat. This can be represented in a chart with the center panel repeat being outlined in one color and the side repeats outlined in another color. Sometimes the chart will have arrows at the bottom with clarification. The directions would be to work the first wing repeat over the designated number of wing stitches, then work the center panel repeat over the designated number of center panel stitches, and finally to work the wing repeat over the designated number of wing stitches for the second wing.
Casting on and Binding Off
Because lace is an open fabric, the cast on and bind off need to be stretchy. This is especially true if the lace will scallop, as in the Feather and Fan pattern. The tips of the scallops will curl up if the cast on is too tight. There are many stretchy cast ons available. Sometimes a swatch is the best way to determine the most suitable cast on. The bind off also needs to be loose enough to accommodate how much the fabric will be stretched when blocked. Some recommend binding off with larger needles, but this often just looks loose. Again, there are many very good stretchy bind offs that look tidy as well. For the Feather and Fan sample in Figure 4, I cast on with the Double Needle Cast On (See this video) and bound off with the Russian Bind Off (See this video).
Correcting Mistakes
One of the biggest deterrents to knitters taking up lace is the fear of mistakes and how to correct them. Stitch markers are a great way to separate pattern repeats. A quick stitch count after each pattern repeat will ensure the correct number of yarn overs have been worked. Counting each repeat on the wrong-side rows when they are worked plain is also a good way to ensure all the yarn overs have been worked. If you note that a yo is missing, simply take the tip of the left needle, front to back, under the bar between the two stitches where the yo should be and work this new stitch. (This is simply a “make one open or M1o” increase). Knitting is very forgiving, and someone would be hard pressed to find this correction.
If a decrease is worked in the wrong direction or is missed, this can also be corrected on a wrong-side row. Work to the incorrect decrease, turn the work to the right side, carefully put the stitches from two rows below on the left needle. Pull out the yarn from the last row, then rework the decrease correctly. If a decrease is missed, the correction is the same, you will just have a little extra yarn, and that can be evened out with a tapestry needle.
Another precautionary option is a lifeline. A lifeline is a piece of waste yarn that is worked into the stitch pattern at certain intervals. If a mistake is made, the piece can be unraveled back to the lifeline. Lifelines should be placed at obvious breaks in the pattern. When the lace is lace knitting, it can be placed on a wrong-side row. A good place to put one is after each chart repeat of the pattern. Be sure to mark on your pattern where you put the lifeline so that if you do have to rip back, you will know where to start again. One method is to take a contrasting smooth—often finer—yarn (embroidery thread works well) threaded on a tapestry needle and slip all the stitches onto this lifeline. Then all the stitches are slipped back onto the needle, being careful not to snag or catch the lifeline. If you are using circular needles that have a pinhole to tighten the needles, the lifeline can be threaded through this hole. The row or round is then worked and the lifeline will be in place. Be careful to remove stitch markers (removable stitch markers solve this problem), or they will get caught in the lifeline and will not be free to move up the work as you knit.
Blocking
Blocking is what makes lace come to life! The lace project should be soaked thoroughly. Wool needs at least 20 minutes, and silk can take 24 hours to completely saturate. Blocking wires can be used and/or rustproof pins. The pieces should be stretched until the yarn overs are open and the lace pattern shows. Some people prefer to pin to shape the lace first (or use blocking wires), and then spray the piece with water. Either way, let the lace dry completely before removing the blocking pins/wires.
Bibliography
Editors of Vogue Knitting magazine. Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book. Sixth&Springs Books, 2018.
Erickson-Schweitzer, Jackie. “A Primer on Knitted Lace.” Interweave, 25 Jan. 2021.
Gonzales, Leslie. “Demystifying the Yarn Over/Decrease Relationship in Lace.” Cast On, Nov. 2014–Jan. 2015, pp. 61–64.
Hiatt, June Hemmons. The Principles of Knitting. Simon and Schuster, 2012.
McAdam Cahill, Celia. “Increasing and Decreasing in Lace.” Cast On, Fall 2020.
Pattern Associated with Article — Bellflower
Copyright 2023, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Spring 2023, All Rights Reserved
