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Purple Pansies by Arenda Holladay
Beyond the Pattern
I was inspired by a design I did almost 20 years ago to do a stranded vest in summer colors. The stitch pattern is simple, and by the time I did the last repeat, I had almost memorized it.
I do stranded work flat. I know this is shocking, but I find that my stranded tension is much better. I tend to tighten up the stranding when working in the round. I don’t mind steeks, I just prefer this method. I’ve graded this pattern as Complex, so feel free to work it in the round if that is your preference.
The finishing techniques I used also contribute to the Complex grading. I used the double-band pickup technique for all of the bands. If I am doing a piece which I think might fall into the “heirloom” category, I take the extra step to take the finishing up a level or two. This is another area where you can use the finishing techniques you prefer.
The vest’s length is slightly below the waist. The number of pattern repeats is the same for all sizes. (The difference in length is in the ribbing and the main color, before the first motif and after the last motif.) Should you want the vest longer, I suggest adding additional rows between the pattern repeats.
Sizes
XS (S, M, L) [1X, 2X, 3X] {4X, 5X, 6X}
Finished Measurements
Chest: 30.25 (34.5, 38.75, 43) [47.25, 51.5, 55.75] {60, 64.25, 68.5}”
Length: 19.5 (19.5, 19.5, 19.5) [21, 21, 21] {22.5, 22.5, 22.5}”
Materials
Purl Soho GOOD WOOL (383yds/350m, 100g/3.5oz, 100% Andean Highland Wool): 2 (2, 2, 2) [3, 3, 3] {4, 4, 4} hanks #1000 Heirloom White (Color A) and 1 (1, 1, 1) [1, 1, 1] {1, 1, 1} hank each #9970 Wild Heath (Color B), #9975 Purple Pansy (Color C) and #9925 Tree Frog (Color D)
Size 2 (2.75mm) circular needles (2) * for double-band pickup
Size 3 (3.25mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Stitch markers
Stitch holders, waste yarn (WY), or barber cord
Tapestry needle
Safety pins to mark buttonhole placement
Seven .75″ buttons
Seven backing buttons
*You need two smaller needles for the double-band pickup technique. You may want to use even smaller needles. I recommend testing the technique on the gauge swatch to determine a size that works best for you. The two needles do not need to be the same size.
Gauge
In Stranded St st, 30 sts & 36 rows = 4″/10cm. To save time, take time to check gauge.
Abbreviations
EOR—End of Row.
Stitch Pattern
See Purple Pansies Chart.
DESIGNER NOTE—I recommend placing markers for each pattern multiple. I placed the markers while casting on. Since the body is worked in one piece to the armholes, there are a lot of stitches, and this makes counting them easier.
When you work stranded patterns flat, there are two stitches at each selvedge for the seam allowance. Work one stitch in each color at the selvedges. The chart does not include these stitches.
Vest Bottom
Using the long-tail CO technique and Color A, CO 18 sts, pm, *CO 16 sts, pm, rep from * 12 (14, 16, 18) [20, 22, 24] {26, 28, 30} times total, CO 17 sts—227 (259, 291, 323) [355, 387, 419] {451, 483, 515} sts.
Work in K1P1 ribbing for 1 (1, 1, 1) [1.5, 1.5, 1.5] {2, 2, 2}” ending on WS row. Work in St st for 0.5 (0.5, 0.5, 0.5) [1, 1, 1] {1.5, 1.5, 1.5}”, ending on a WS row.
DESIGNER NOTE—Stitches from the Purple Pansies Chart are worked. Note that the lines on the chart separating the pattern multiple from the pattern at the beginning and the end of the rows. Remember the chart DOES NOT INCLUDE the two stitches at each edge for the seam allowance. Work 1 stitch in each color at the selvedges.
The markers placed when casting on should make following the chart easier.
Using Colors A and B, knit 1 st in each color, work sts in Columns 1–16 of the Purple Pansies Chart once, then sts in Columns 17–32 of the chart 12 (14, 16, 18) [20, 22, 24] {26, 28, 30} times, then sts in Columns 33–47 of the chart.
Work in pat as est until the piece measures 10 (10, 10, 10) [10.5, 10.5, 10.5] {11.5, 11.5, 11.5}”, ending on a WS row.
DESIGNER NOTE—The fronts and back are worked separately. I recommend working the back first, which makes it easier to match up the lengths of the fronts. The procedure I used was to work the specified number of stitches for the right front, bind off stitches for the right armhole, work the stitches for the back, bind off stitches for the left armhole, and then work the stitches for the left front. I cut the yarn and placed the stitches for the fronts on waste yarn. I joined the yarn to the WS of the back and continued the armhole shaping of the back. Although you could work the back and the fronts at the same time, yarn management in stranded work is VERY difficult. As for the Setup Row, instructions are provided for groups of sizes.
Note that the armhole openings are quite wide for each size.
Divide for Back and Fronts
Work 52 (60, 68, 76) [84, 92, 100] {108, 116, 124} sts in pat as est, BO 10, work 103 (119, 135, 151) [167, 183, 199] {215, 231, 247} sts in pat, BO 10, work in pat as est to EOR. Break yarn and place sts for both fronts on waste yarn, yarn holders or barber cord. Join yarn to WS of back.
DESIGNER NOTE—When you work the Back and Fronts, maintain 2 sts at each selvedge for the seam allowance.
Armhole Shaping
Sizes XS (S, M, L)
BO 5 sts at both sides of the back 1 (2, 3, 3) times, then 3 sts 3 (2, 2, 2) times— 75 (87, 93, 109) sts. Work in pat as est until armhole there are 5 pat repeats of the Purple Pansies Chart. Using Color A, work 0.5″ in St st. BO.
Sizes 1X (2X, 3X)
BO 5 sts at both sides of the back 3 (4, 4) times, then 4 sts 2 times—121 (127, 143) sts. Work in pat as est until armhole there are 5 pat repeats of the Purple Pansies Chart. Using Color A, work 1″ in St st. BO.
Sizes 4X (5X, 6X)
BO 6 sts at both sides of the back 4 (4, 4) times, then 2 sts 3 (4, 5) times—155 (167, 179) sts. Work in pat as est until armhole there are 5 pat repeats of the Purple Pansies Chart. Using Color A, work 1.5″ in St st. BO.
DESIGNER NOTE—The Left Front is worked first. The stitches are transferred to the needle and the yarn is joined to the neck side of the front, on the WS. The last row worked on this side was on the RS and for the pansies pattern to continue, the next row must be worked on the WS. The armhole is shaped next.
Left Front
Join yarn at the neck side and knit to EOR.
Armhole and Neckline Shaping
Sizes XS (S, M, L)
BO 5 sts at the armhole edge 1 (2, 3, 3) times, then 3 sts 3 (2, 2, 2) times— 38 (44, 47, 55) sts. Work in pat as est until the piece measures 15″. BO 10 sts at the neck edge, then 5 sts 1 (1, 1, 2) times, then 2 sts 2 (3, 3, 3) times then 1 st 0 (1, 1, 1)—19 (22, 25, 28) sts rem. Work in pat as est until piece measures 19.5”. BO.
Sizes 1X (2X, 3X)
BO 5 sts at the armhole edge 3 (4, 4) times, then 4 sts 2 times—61 (64, 72) sts. Work in pat as est until the piece 16.5”. BO 10 sts at the neck edge, then 5 sts 2 (2, 3) times, then 2 sts 5 times—31 (34, 37) sts rem. Work in pat as est until piece measures 21″. BO.
Sizes 4X (5X, 6X)
BO 6 sts at the armhole edge 4 times, then 2 sts 3 (4, 5) times—78 (84, 90) sts. Work in pat as est until the piece measures 18”. BO 10 sts 2 times at the neck edge, then 5 stitches sts 2 (3, 4) times, then 2 sts 4 (3, 2) times—40 (43, 46) sts rem. Work in pat as est until piece measures 22”. BO.
Finishing
Block all pieces. Seam the shoulders.
DESIGNER NOTE—For the sample, I used the double-band pickup which I discuss in this article in the Summer 2017 issue of Cast On. The photograph below shows the neckband and front bands.
Note that this technique hides the raw edges. Since there are two stitches for the seam allowance and LOTS of yarn tails, this technique works well. The biggest advantage is that it also covers the yarn tails. I would love to tell you that it is easy to work, but it isn’t. I think it is worth it, but how you finish depends on your preferences. Before working the bands, I buried the yarn tails in the seam allowance stitches and trimmed them.
The button band is worked first so that you can use it as a guide for the buttonhole band. You can work any buttonhole you prefer, but I worked one-row horizontal buttonholes as they are sturdier.
Button Band
After the bands were finished, I picked up the neckband. I did not want a ribbed neckband, so on the last row of the double band, I bound off the first stitch knitwise and the next stitch purlwise, creating the edging. I used the same technique on the armhole bands.
Using Color A and the two smaller needles, pick up sts along the left front. Work the double band as described in the referenced article until both sides of the band cover the seam allowance. Complete the band as described in the article. Work 0.75″ in K1P1. BO in pat.
Buttonhole Band
Along the right front, work as for the Button Band until the double band is closed, and then work 0.375” in K1P1 ribbing before working the buttonholes. Using a buttonhole technique of your choice, work 7 evenly spaced buttonholes on the band. BO in pat when the K1P1 portion of the band measures 0.875”.
Neckband
Starting at the right neck edge, work as for the Button Band but when you close the double band, bind off the stitches as you work them together—as you would for K1P1 ribbing BUT bind off the stitches instead of working ribbing.
Armhole Bands
Work as for the neckband. Rep for the second armhole.
DESIGNER NOTE—I highly recommend using backing buttons when you sew the buttons in place. If you are not familiar with using them, refer to this article by Frank H. Jernigan.
Sew the buttons on the left front using backing buttons.
Block again if necessary and weave in yarn tails not encased in the double band.
Copyright 2026, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Summer 2026, All Rights Reserved
