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From Plain to Polished by Celia McAdam Cahill
Special Topics in Finishing Summer 2026
The Power of Decorative Edging
Decorative edging is one of the most expressive elements in knitting, transforming basic boundaries into focal points of design. Whether framing a delicate shawl, finishing a cuff, or bordering a blanket, edgings can easily add polish, structure, and artistic flair. They come in two primary orientations: horizontal (worked across the top or bottom edge of the fabric) and vertical (worked in rows congruent to the fabric sides), each with distinct techniques, aesthetics, and attachment methods.
This article is a brief overview of the options for decorative edgings, their characteristics, and the practical considerations for attaching and integrating them into your knitted projects. The examples I am using are all from designs in Cast On because the patterns all provide specific detail on the edging design and construction; photos include the garment as well as a close up of the edging to provide context.
Edging Approaches: Horizontal and Vertical
Horizontal edgings come in two flavors: they can run across the width of a piece, such as making up the cast-on or bind-off edge, or they can be worked at one or both side edges, such as an integrated button band. Either way, they are worked as part of the fabric.
Vertical edgings run along the length of a piece, with the most common applications being down the front of a cardigan or along the side of a blanket or shawl. They can be attached either by picking up and knitting stitches along the vertical edge of the piece or by knitting the edging separately, then sewing it on.
The Key Consideration: Will Your Edging Lie Flat?
It is a basic rule of knitting that stockinette-based stitches will roll at the edges. For your edging to lie flat, the stitch pattern needs to be either garter-based or a balance of knits and purls. This is a key consideration when selecting what edging you might want to add to your project. The Mistral pattern (insert link here) fits that requirement by using a garter-and-slip-stitch colorwork edging.
Attachment Options
How an edging is attached to the main fabric is as important as the edging itself. The wrong attachment method can pucker, distort, or cause the edging to fall away from the fabric. The right method creates an invisible or intentionally decorative join.
Knitting On As You Go/Integrated Edging
The most seamless attachment method simply works the edging as part of the main fabric, using either the horizontal or vertical edge—or both!
For a horizontal edge, the edging would be either the cast-on or bind-off edge, ensuring that the final edge has a non-rolling pattern. This is demonstrated in the Pegaso pattern, shown above, as well as the Evora pattern, shown below, which use several rows of garter to start the edge. Another key consideration here is to account for any differences in stitch gauge and/or pattern multiples between the edging and the main fabric by increasing or decreasing stitches evenly.
For a vertical edge, the edging would be cast on at the beginning and/or end of the row, again ensuring the edge has a non-rolling pattern. This is demonstrated in the Catalina pattern, shown above, which includes a K1P1 repeat at the edge. Here, the key consideration is the row gauge, making sure it is compatible with that of the main fabric. It is possible to make an adjustment for the row difference via short rows, but the math can get complicated; it is far easier to select stitch patterns for the edging and main fabric that have the same row gauge.
Picking Up and Knitting
In this method, stitches are picked up along a finished fabric edge, and the edging is then worked outward from those picked-up stitches. This method integrates the edging into the fabric structure and produces a clean join.
On horizontal edges, the pick up is straightforward at a 1:1 ratio, with stitches picked up at the center V of the stitch below the cast-on or bind-off edge. It’s worth considering that many common cast on and bind offs will likely create a firm edge under the picked up stitches. If that isn’t your intention, a provisional cast on might be a better choice.
On a vertical edge, however, the pick-up ratio matters and is calculated by dividing the number of stitches by the number of rows in 4”. A common ratio for joining stockinette is .75, or 3 sts for every 4 rows. If too many stitches are picked up, the edging will pucker; too few, and the edging will pull.
For the front bands on Mistral, the calculations were a bit trickier since the gauge changes midway through the front. The tighter gauge of 22 stitches and 32 rows to 4” calculates as 22 divided by 32, or .82, or roughly 4 stitches for every 5 rows. The looser gauge of 18 stitches and 22 rows to 4” calculates to .68, or roughly 2 stitches for every 3 rows. The average of .82 and .68 comes to .75—a long way of calculating 3 stitches for every 4 rows. Alternatively—and probably easier—is to use the stitch gauge of the edging and the length of the edge. For example, if the edging is 20 stitches to 4” and the length of the edge is 20”, you’ll need to pick up 100 stitches (adjusted for the stitch pattern, of course).
Sewn/Grafted Attachment
Another classic way of attaching decorative edging is to work the edging separately and seam it to the finished main fabric using a tapestry needle and yarn. While it does involve an extra step, it can be a smart approach when the stitch or row gauge of the main fabric is not going to easily match up to that of the edging. This is shown on the Fireflight shrug, shown above.
Several sewing techniques can be used, depending on the desired appearance of the join, including mattress stitch for a vertical edge and Kitchener for a horizontal one. For heavier woolens, some may prefer a whipstitch or backstitch that will create a firmer seam.
Provisional Cast On and Later Grafting
For an invisible attachment, an edging can be begun with a provisional cast on. After the edging and main fabric are both complete, the held stitches are grafted together using Kitchener stitch for a seamless, live-stitch join. This does require advance planning to ensure your stitch counts match.
Planning Your Edging
It is clear that regardless of the approach, decorative edgings require special consideration to allow for differences in stitch and row gauge. Many decorative edgings are worked over specific stitch multiples (e.g., multiples of 6 sts + 2). When picking up stitches for an edging or planning a perpendicular lace border, the stitch count of the main fabric must be adjusted or the pick-up ratio modified to result in a count compatible with the edging pattern. Careful planning at the start of a project avoids frustrating mathematical problems at the finishing stage. Yes, that means swatching to find out if you need to alter your stitch count to accommodate either/both your edge pattern or difference in gauge between the body and edging.
Common Decorative Edgings
The simplest and most common edgings are garter stitch, seed stitch, or ribbing. Practical—as they provide for a flat edge—but one would hardly call them decorative. So let’s explore some more creative options.
Lace Edgings
A classic category, particularly of horizontal edging, is lace borders featuring eyelets, yarn overs, and decreases arranged into decorative motifs such as leaves, diamonds, or waves.
Ruffle and Flounce Edgings
Ruffles are created by dramatically increasing or decreasing the stitch count over a short section of knitting, causing the fabric to gather and flare. They can be worked bottom up or top down. When worked top down, ruffles start by picking up stitches along an edge and increasing at a ratio of 2:1 or 3:1 over several rows. Conversely, when worked bottom up, the cast on is 2 to 3 times the number of stitches and rapidly decreasing to the desired end number of stitches. These can also be worked in lace and texture patterns for extra flair.
I-Cord Edging
I-cord is a narrow, round tube of knitting produced on two needles or double-pointed needles. When applied as a vertical edging, it creates a smooth, rope-like border that is both decorative and structurally reinforcing.
Colorwork Edging
Colorwork can easily be introduced into any type of edging, whether it be a solid contrasting edge or creative colorwork. Corrugated rib, mosaic and slip-stitch patterns, and contrast laces are some common examples.
Conclusion
Decorative edging is where the knitter’s technical skill and artistic sensibility meet. Whether you choose a simple garter border for a child’s blanket, an intricate perpendicular lace hem for an heirloom shawl, or a clean I-cord edge on a tailored cardigan, the edging you select and how you attach it will significantly influence the finished character of your work. Understanding the range of options—horizontal and vertical, integrated and applied, sewn and live-stitch—gives you the vocabulary to make informed, creative choices that serve both the beauty and the function of your knitting.
Pattern Associated with Article — Mistral
Copyright 2026, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Summer 2026, All Rights Reserved
