No products in the cart.
Ferney by Leslie Gonzalez
Beyond the Pattern
This sweater was designed to accompany the Fashion Framework article on Full-Fashioned Shoulder Shaping. Sometimes referred to as French shoulders, I named the pattern after Voltaire’s home, Ferney, and used a leaf-patterned lace to accent the cardigan. “Il faut cultiver notre jardin,” wrote Voltaire. We must cultivate our garden.
This is a garden I’ve been cultivating. All shaping for Ferney uses the full-fashioned method. The shoulder shaping uses cable decreases which are decorative and characteristic of the full-fashioned shoulder. All decreases, including the cable decreases, are made full-fashioned, which means they slant in the opposite direction of slope they are creating. Except for the shoulders, all other decreases are the common ssk and k2tog. (See Cast On Pattern Basics.) All increases should be made full-fashioned as described in the pattern. Directions for the increases M1R and M1L can be found in Cast On Pattern Basics.
Sizes
S (M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X)
Finished Measurements
Chest Circumference: 36 (39, 41.5, 46, 51, 55.5)”
Length from Shoulder: 22.75 (23, 23.5, 25.5, 26.5, 27.5)”
Materials
Malabrigo ARROYO (335yds/306m, 100g/3.5oz, 100% Superwash Merino Wool): 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7) skeins #096 Sunset
Size 5 (3.75mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Size 6 (4mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Cable needle
Interlocking stitch markers (2)
Tapestry needle
Gauge
On smaller needles in St st, 22 sts & 32 rows = 4”/10cm.
On larger needles over Ferney Lace Chart, 23 sts & 32 rows = 4”/10cm.
To save time, take time to check gauge.
TECHNICAL TIP—You may need different needles for the lace and stockinette sections. Work two separate gauge swatches, one in each pattern.
Abbreviations
CDR—Place 1 st on cn and hold to back, k1, then knit the st on the cn with the next st on the LH needle. (1 st decreased)
CDL—Place 2 sts on cn and hold to front, knit the first st on the cn tog with the next st on the LH needle, k1 from the cn. (1 st decreased)
CDR2—Place 2 sts on cn and hold to back, *knit the next st on the LH needle tog with the first st on the cn; rep from * again. (2 sts decreased)
CDL2—Place 2 sts on cn and hold to front, *knit the first st on the cn tog with the next st on the LH needle; rep from * again. (2 sts decreased)
Stitch Patterns
Half Twisted Ribbing for Body/Front Bands/Neckband (Multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Row 1 (RS): *K1 tbl, p1; rep from *, end k1 tbl.
Row 2 (WS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 1 and 2.
Note: Front Bands and Neckband beg with Row 2.
DESIGNER NOTE—The body and band ribbings are worked over an odd number of stitches while the sleeve ribbings are worked over an even number of stitches. This allows for symmetry of bands not being seamed and allows the pattern to be carried over seams. After casting on, the body begins with a RS row. The bands are picked up along the RS, and therefore the ribbing must begin with a WS row.
Half Twisted Ribbing for Sleeve Cuffs (Multiple of 2 sts)
Row 1 (RS): *K1 tbl, p1; rep from *.
Row 2 (WS): *K1, p1; rep from *.
Rep Rows 1 and 2.
Ferney Lace Pattern (multiple of 10 sts +1)
See Ferney Lace Chart.
Special Technique
Modified Decrease Bind Off
On the WS: K1 tbl. Place this stitch on the LH needle by inserting the LH needle from right to left through the stitch and slipping it back onto the LH needle. The stitch should be correctly oriented. * K2tog tbl, replace st onto LH needle as described above. Rep from * to end.
Body
With smaller needles CO 229 (249, 269, 299, 329, 359) sts. Work in Half Twisted Ribbing for Body for 1 (1, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25)”, ending with a RS row. Purl 1 row. Change to larger needles.
Maintaining the first and last 4 sts in St st, work Rows 1–16 of Ferney Lace Chart over center 221 (241, 261, 291, 321, 351) sts.
Rep Rows 1–16 of Ferney Lace Chart until piece measures 12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 13)” or desired length to armhole less 2 (2, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5)” from beg, ending with a WS row.
DESIGNER NOTE—The lace section is worked significantly looser than the chest portion of the cardigan. This allows the lace to flow and accommodate the lower body. If you would like a longer or shorter cardigan, adjust the size by adding to or subtracting from the length of the lace section. If you alter the length, you may need a different amount of yarn.
TECHNICAL TIP—The decrease section reconciles the differences in the gauges of the two stitch patterns as well as the differences in the sizes of the lower and chest sections of the sweater.
Change to smaller needles and beg St st but work the foll transition rows:
Next Row (RS): Knit, decreasing 22 (24, 26, 29, 32, 35) sts evenly spaced. Work 5 rows even in St st.
Next Row (RS): Knit, decreasing 10 (11, 15, 17, 16, 19) sts evenly spaced—197 (214, 228, 253, 281, 305) sts.
Cont in St st until piece measures 14 (14, 14, 15.5, 16, 16.5)” from beg, ending with a WS row.
Split for Armholes
Next Row (RS): Cont in St st, work 42 (46, 50, 55, 62, 68) sts, BO 14 (14, 14, 16, 16, 16) sts, work 84 (93, 99, 110, 124, 136) sts, BO 14 (14, 14, 16, 16, 16) sts, work to end.
Place 42 (46, 50, 55, 62, 68) sts on separate WY for both right and left fronts, leaving 85 (94, 100, 111, 125, 137) back sts on needle.
Back Armhole Shaping
Join yarn to work WS and work 1 row even. At the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) sts. At the beg of the foll 2 rows, BO 0 (0, 0, 4, 5, 5) sts—77 (86, 92, 95, 103, 115) sts rem.
Dec Row (RS): K3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 2 (1, 2, 2, 1, 3) more time(s)—71 (82, 86, 89, 99, 107) sts.
Cont in St st until armhole measures 5 (5, 5.25, 5.75, 6, 6.25)”, ending with a WS row.
Shoulder Shaping
Dec Row 1 (RS): K3, CDR, knit to the last 6 sts, CDL, k3.
Rep Dec Row 1 every RS row 1 (1, 1, 0, 1, 1) more time(s).
Dec Row 2 (RS): K3, CDR2, knit to the last 7 sts, CDL2, k3.
Rep Dec Row 2 every RS row 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11) more times.
BO 35 (42, 42, 43, 51, 55) sts.
Left Front
Place 42 (46, 50, 55, 62, 68) sts for left front on smaller needles and join yarn to work a WS row. Cont in St st and work 1 row even.
Next Row (RS): BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) sts, work to end.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row: BO 0 (0, 0, 4, 5, 5) sts, work to end.
Next Row: Purl—38 (42, 46, 47, 51, 57) sts rem.
Dec Row (RS): K3, k2tog, work to end.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 2 (1, 2, 2, 1, 3) more times—35 (40, 43, 44, 49, 53) sts.
Cont in St st until armhole measures 3.5 (4, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5)”, ending with a RS row.
Neck Shaping
Next Row (WS): BO 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts.
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Next Row: BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 8) sts—22 (25, 27, 28, 31, 33) sts rem.
Dec Row (RS): Knit to the last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 3 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) more times—18 (20, 22, 23, 24, 26) sts.
Cont straight until armhole measures 8.75 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)”, ending with a WS row.
Place an interlocking st marker into the fabric at the right selvedge edge to mark the top of the armhole.
Inc Row (RS): K2, M1L, knit to end.
Rep Inc Row every RS row 4 more times.
BO 23 (25, 27, 28, 29, 30) sts.
Right Front
Place 42 (46, 50, 55, 62, 68) sts for right front onto smaller needles and join yarn to work a WS row. Cont in St st and work 2 rows.
Next Row (WS): BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) sts, work to end.
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Next Row: BO 0 (0, 0, 4, 5, 5) sts—38 (42, 46, 47, 51, 57) sts rem.
Dec Row (RS): Knit to the last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 2 (1, 2, 2, 1, 3) more times—35 (40, 43, 44, 49, 53) sts.
Cont in St st until armhole measures 3.5 (4, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5)”, ending with a WS row.
Neck Shaping
Next Row (RS): BO 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 8) sts—22 (25, 27, 28, 31, 33) sts rem.
Dec Row (RS): K3, k2tog, knit to end.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 3 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) more times—18 (20, 22, 23, 24, 26) sts.
Cont straight until armhole measures 8.75 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)”, ending with a WS row.
Place an interlocking st marker into the fabric at the left selvedge edge to mark the top of the armhole.
Inc Row (RS): Knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2.
Rep Inc Row every RS row 4 more times.
BO 23 (25, 27, 28, 29, 30) sts.
Sleeves (Make 2)
With smaller needles, CO 44 (44, 50, 58, 66, 74) sts. Work in Half Twisted Ribbing for Sleeve Cuffs for 2”, ending with a WS row. Beg St st and work 2 rows.
Inc at each end on the next and every 6th row 12 (13, 12, 12, 13, 12) more times—70 (72, 76, 84, 94, 100) sts.
Cont until sleeve measures 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14)”, or desired length, ending with a WS row.
DESIGNER NOTE—The sleeves are designed as three-quarter-length sleeves. For longer sleeves, spread the increases over the desired length. To work the increases full-fashioned, work a M1L at the beg of the row and a M1R at the end of the row. Don’t increase on the selvedge stitches as this will interfere with seaming.
Sleeve Cap Shaping
At the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts. At the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6) sts. At the beg of the foll two rows, BO 0 (0, 0, 4, 5, 5) sts—48 (50, 54, 52, 56, 62) sts rem.
Dec Row (RS): K3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 1 (1, 3, 3, 1, 3) more times—44 (46, 46, 44, 52, 54) sts.
Then rep Dec Row every other RS row 10 (9, 11, 13, 13, 14) times.
Then rep Dec Row every RS row 5 (7, 4, 0, 3, 3) times.
BO rem 14 (14, 16, 18, 20, 20) sts.
TECHNICAL TIP—Blocking all pieces prior to finishing facilitates seaming.
Finishing
Join front and back shoulders.
TECHNICAL TIP—When seaming stitches to rows on a diagonal, keep in mind that 5.5 sts should be seamed to each inch of the diagonal. Using interlocking stitch markers to mark one-inch increments can be helpful.
Join sleeves to armholes. The interlocking stitch marker indicates the top of the shoulder. Line up the top center of the sleeve cap with the interlocking stitch marker for each sleeve. Seam from the top of the shoulder to the armhole base on one side and then on the other. If you are unfamiliar with this method, see the article “Seaming a Set-In Sleeve” by Donna Estin.
Seam sleeves.
DESIGNER NOTE—Buttonholes are made on the third row of the bands on the wrong side. If a different length was made, pick up the correct number of stitches for the chosen length. The total number of stitches will need to be odd.
Front Bands
Button Band: With RS facing and using smaller needles, pu and knit 97 (99, 105, 115, 121, 127) sts along left front. Beg with a WS row, work Half Twisted Ribbing for Front Bands for 6 rows.
BO on WS using Modified Decrease Bind Off.
Buttonhole Band: With RS facing and using smaller needles, pu and knit 97 (99, 105, 115, 121, 127) sts along right front. Beg with a WS row, work Half Twisted Ribbing for Front Bands for 2 rows.
Buttonhole Row (WS): Work 4 sts in pat, p2tog, yo, cont in pat to end. Work 3 more rows in pat for a total of 6 rows.
BO on WS using Modified Decrease Bind Off.
Neckband
With RS facing and using smaller needles, pu and knit 35 (37, 33, 33, 36, 38) sts along right front, 35 (43, 43, 43, 51, 55) sts along back neck, and 35 (37, 33, 33, 36, 38) sts along left front—105 (117, 109, 109, 123, 131) sts. Beg with a WS row, work Half Twisted Ribbing for Front Bands for 2 rows.
Buttonhole Row (WS): Work 3 sts in pat, yo, p2tog, cont in pat to end.
Work 3 more rows in pat for a total of 6 rows.
BO on WS using Modified Decrease Bind Off.
Weave in ends and block.
Article Associated with Pattern — Full-Fashioned Shoulders
Free Resources – Download Free Pattern
Copyright 2023, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Winter 2022-2023, All Rights Reserved
