Fairlane Tee By Celia McAdam Cahill

Beyond the Pattern

I think modular knitting is really interesting, but because of its angular configuration, it is difficult to shape. That’s why most of the applications you see are scarves or shawls. So I pondered how to design a sweater that had sections that did not require shaping as a place to insert modular squares. I quickly gravitated to a literal “tee” shape, with the modular section in the bodice as being the most flattering placement.

I designed the tee for a summer feel, using a linen blend yarn and a very generous 4” of ease at the bust for a loose fit. Because the top is reversible, you could easily change the color choices and order of the contrasting colors for the modular squares on the front and back to create a different look.

DESIGNER NOTE – The Fairlane Tee is a loose-fitting, simple tee-style pullover with multi-color modular squares across the bodice and short-row shaping and three-needle bind off at the shoulders. The tee is knit in two pieces from the bottom up with Garter stitch edging at the bottom and sleeves. As a bonus, because the neck is a wide ballet style crew, and the front and back are identical – that means the pullover is reversible.

Sizes

S (M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X)

Finished Measurements

Bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58)”
Length: 23.25 (24, 24.5, 24.75, 25.25, 25.75)”

Materials

Juniper Moon Farm ZOOEY (100g/3.53 oz, 284yds/260m, 60% cotton, 40% linen/flax): 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins #01 Sea Salt (MC), 1 skein each #11 Mainsail (CC1), #12 Tell-Tale (CC2), and #30 Blue Dragon (CC3)
Size 5 (3.75mm) needles, or one size smaller than needles used for body
Size 5 (3.75mm) 24” (60cm) circ needles, or one size smaller than needles used for body, for neckband
Size 6 (4.0mm) circ needles long enough to accommodate sts, or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle

Gauge

In St st, 23 sts & 32 rows = 4”/10cm on larger needles. Each modular square measures 3 x 3”. To save time, take time to check gauge.

TECHNICAL TIP – The two double decreases described in Abbreviations are both neutral, in they do not lean right or left. The CDD, or centered double decrease, is by far the more common and generally used on the RS of the fabric. I was pleased to find there is a mirror of that technique for the purl side, described on pp. 154-55 of Judith Durant’s Increase Decrease: 99 Step-by-Step Methods, which she calls the P2pp. This comes in to play on the first row of the Modular Squares to keep the continuity of the decrease line.

Abbreviations

CDD – Centered (or Central) Double Decrease: Sl 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass the 2 slipped sts over.
P2pp – With yarn in front, sl 2 sts, one at a time, knitwise and return to left needle. Starting with the second slipped st, insert right needle into the back of those two slipped sts and slip back to the right needle. Purl the next st and pass the 2 slipped sts over.

Stitch Pattern:

Modular Square (worked over 33 sts)

Row 1 (RS): Starting with rem st from previous square and in MC, pick up and knit 16 sts evenly along left edge of previous square, then knit 16 sts from holder – 33 sts.
Row 2 (WS): In MC, p15, p2pp, purl to end – 31 sts.
Row 3: In MC, k14, CDD, k14 – 29 sts.
Row 4: Purl across.
Row 5: In CC1, k13, CDD, k13 – 27 sts.
Row 6: In CC1, k13, p1, knit to end.
Row 7: In CC1, k12, CDD, k12 – 25 sts.
Rows 8: In CC1, k12, p1, knit to end.
Row 9: In MC, k11, CDD, k11 – 23 sts.
Rows 10 and 12: Rep Row 4.
Row 11: In MC, k10, CDD, k10 – 21 sts.
Row 13: In CC1, k9, CDD, k9 – 19 sts.
Row 14: In CC1, k9, p1, k to end.
Row 15: In CC1, k8, CDD, k8 – 17 sts.
Row 16: In CC1, k8, p1, knit to end.
Row 17: In MC, k7, CDD, k7 – 15 sts.
Rows 18 and 20: Rep Row 4.
Row 19: In MC, k6, CDD, k6 – 13 sts.
Row 21: In CC1, k5, CDD, k5 – 11 sts.
Row 22: In CC1, k5, p1, knit to end.
Row 23: In CC1, k4, CDD, k4 – 9 sts.
Row 24: In CC1, k4, p1, k to end.
Row 25: In MC, k3, CDD, k3 – 7 sts.
Rows 26 and 28: Rep Row 4.
Row 27: In MC, k2, CDD, k2 – 5 sts.
Row 29: In MC, k1, CDD, k1 – 3 sts.
Row 30: In MC, p2pp – 1 st rem.

Back and Front (make 1 of each)

With smaller needles, CO 110 (120, 132, 142, 154, 160) sts. Work 1” in Garter stitch, ending with WS row. Change to larger needles and work in St st until piece meas 13 (13.25, 13.25, 13.25, 13.25, 13.25)” or desired length to armhole, ending with a WS row.

Sleeve Increases

CO 5 (6, 7, 5, 6, 4) sts beg next 2 rows, then CO 4 (6, 7, 4, 5, 4) beg next 2 rows – 128 (144, 160, 160, 176, 176) sts.
Work even until piece measures 1.75 (2.25, 2.75, 3.25, 3.5, 4” above sleeve increases, ending with a WS row. Knit 3 rows even.

TECHNICAL TIP – As an option to placing the sts on a holder, you can leave the live sts on the circular needle cable until needed. Take care that you work only 16 sts from the circular needle for each modular square; placing a marker every 16 sts may be helpful.

Next Row (WS): Knit to last 16 sts, placing these 112 (128, 144, 144, 160, 160) sts on holder. Knit rem 16 sts.

TECHNICAL TIP – Each modular square takes a bit under 5 yards of CC yarn. I find that measuring out the CC and cutting it from the skein first makes working the square easier.

Modular Square Row

Modular Square 1 Setup: CO 17 sts in MC.
Starting with Row 2, work Modular Square pattern – 1 st.

Continue with Modular Square pat as estab, substituting CC in sequence for each square, for a total of 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 11) squares, ending with 1 st. Pull yarn through and break yarn.

Next Row (RS): In MC and starting at right edge, pick up and knit 128 (144, 160, 160, 176, 176) sts along top edge of Modular Square Row just completed. Knit 2 rows even, ending with RS.

Next Row (WS): Knit to last 16 sts, placing these 112 (128, 144, 144, 160, 160) sts on holder. Knit rem 16 sts.

Repeat Modular Square Row, starting the sequence with CC2 as the contrast – 1 st. Pull yarn through and break yarn.

Next Row (RS): In MC, pick up and knit 128 (144, 160, 160, 176, 176) sts along top edge of Modular Square Row. Purl 1 row.

Divide for Neck

Next Row (RS): K38 (44, 51, 51, 57, 56) sts and place on holder for right shoulder, BO 52 (56, 58, 58, 62, 64) sts for neck opening, and knit rem 38 (44, 51, 51, 57, 56) sts for left shoulder.

Front Right/Back Left Shoulder

Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): K30, w&t.
Next Row and all WS rows: Purl.
Next Row (RS): K24, w&t.
Next Row (RS): K18, w&t.
Next Row (RS): K12, w&t.
Next row (RS): Knit across, picking up wraps.
BO.

Front Left/Back Right Shoulder

Place sts from holder onto needle and attach MC at neck edge,
Next Row (WS): P30, w&t.
Next Row and all RS rows: Knit.
Next Row (RS): P24, w&t.
Next Row (RS): P18, w&t.
Next Row (RS): P12, w&t.
Next row (RS): Purl across, picking up wraps.
Knit 1 row. BO.

DESIGNER NOTE – I elected to seam the shoulders, weaving the bound-off edges together for a nice firm seam. A three-needle BO is another appropriate choice, but I found the thick-thin nature of the suggested yarn made the seam look irregular. Another idea would be to do a three-needle BO with WS together to show on the outside, as if to mimic a row of garter st. This could be done in a CC as well.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder seams.

TECHNICAL TIP – Using needles several sizes smaller – in this case, I used a size 2 – to pick up the sleeve and neckband stitches will keep the transition between body and band nice and tight. Just remember to switch to the correct size needles as you start your first row!

Sleeve Bands

Using the smaller needle, with RS facing, and starting at the bottom right of the sleeve edge, pick up and knit 96 (102, 113, 124, 131, 134) sts across the sleeve edge, or approx 3 sts for every 4 rows. Work for 1” in Garter st. BO in pat.
Rep for second sleeve.

Neckband

Using the smaller circular needle, with RS facing, and starting at the left shoulder, *pick up and knit 8 sts across left neck edge, 52 (56, 58, 58, 62, 64) sts from bound off neck edge, 8 sts across right neck edge. Rep from * once – 136 (144, 148, 148, 156, 160) sts. PM and join in the rnd.

Next Rnd: Purl 1 rnd even.
Next Rnd: Knit 1 rnd, decreasing 8 sts evenly – 128 (136, 140, 140, 148, 152) sts.
Rep last 2 rows once – 120 (128, 132, 132, 140, 144) sts.
BO.

Sew side seams. Weave in any remaining ends. Enjoy!

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Revised 07/13/17