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Dubbelmössa by Leslie Gonzalez
Fashion Framework Winter 2023-2023
If you want to make an exceptionally warm hat, look no further than the Swedish Double Hat or Dubbelmössa. The dubbelmössa is a traditional Scandinavian hat or cap that was inspired by various styles of double caps prevalent in nineteenth century Sweden.
Anatomy of a Dubblemössa
The dubbelmössa is a hat within a hat. But it doesn’t end there; the hat is then folded to create a double brim with four layers over the ears. The hat is worked as a tube with a crown worked at each end. The distinctive shape is created by folding the hat several times. The innermost crown and hat serve as a lining and are worked in plain stockinette without embellishment. Next, the outer brim is worked, followed by the inner brim, and finally the outer hat is worked. The bottom section of the outer hat is covered by the brim. Only the top section is visible when worn. The outer hat should be longer than the inner hat, and after that, it can vary in length.
Caps were traded throughout Scandinavia leading to cap shapes and styles to be shared and adapted throughout the region. Traditional Scandinavian caps are based on the stocking cap style of hat, often referred to as bag-cap. These hats range from simple tubes gathered at the top to elaborate double caps with definitive crown shaping. The traditional dubbelmössa is a double cap embellished with stranded motifs on all sides of the outer hat and both sides of the brim. The outer hat was covered with small patterns while the outer brim had larger motifs. The inner cap served as a liner and was knit plain. It was slightly smaller and shorter than the outer cap. This inner cap was worked first and worked top-down allowing the outer cap to be worked bottom up as a continuation after the inner cap was complete.
Traditional dubbelmössa construction calls for the cap to begin at the center top of the inner cap/lining. The inner cap is worked in a solid color, which is usually the background color of the outer cap. It fits snug to the head as it is slightly smaller than the outer cap. Increases are used to shape the crown. After the plain inner hat is worked, the outermost brim is worked in a large motif, stranded pattern. This brim is the brim that will be seen when the hat is worn. The outer brim and remaining outer hat is worked bottom up.
Next, an inner brim is added to this brim. Because the brim will be folded, the inner brim ends up being worked top down and will never be seen when worn. After the outer and inner brims are complete, the outer cap is worked in traditional stranded patterns. The outer cap sits atop of the inner cap and elongates above the inner crown. The hat can be extended to any length. The outer layer can continue straight or slope slightly inward, moving toward the top. The outer crown is formed by decreasing in pattern. A tassel is typically placed at the outer crown center.
An alternate way to work the cap is to begin with a provisional cast on using the yarn for the inner cap. From here, the outer cap is worked bottom up, beginning with the first and outer brim. Next, the inner brim is worked followed by the outer hat and crown. Then, the provisional cast on is taken out, put on needles, and the plain inner cap is worked in the opposite direction.
Materials
The traditional dubbelmössa of yore is considered folk-art knitting, with the primary yarn for folk art being wool. The homes of most common people were poorly heated and drafty, and wool helped keep them warm. In addition to its warming properties, wool was easily accessible and affordable. And it was easy to dye with materials from the natural environment. While spinning the yarn, effort was made to achieve a tight ply to help with the consistency of the yarn and with the durability of the final hat.
Today, wool is still the preferred fiber for knitting Scandinavian caps. Today’s wool comes from improved breeds and is more consistent with a broader array of color choices. Superwash wool is often substituted for plain wool.
Metal double-pointed needles were originally used to make Swedish hats and other items worked in the round. It was common for two or more people to knit the same garment at the same time. Circular needles of varying materials have been a popular choice since the 1940s. The modern hat will use circular and double-pointed needles. Some knitters will substitute extra-long circular needles for dpns and work in magic loop.
Stitch markers are helpful for keeping place in the work. One distinguishable marker should be used to mark the beginning of the round. Other markers can be placed between multiples. Knitters should be able to “read” their work by noting the stitch pattern on the row below and how the current row relates to it.
Gauge
Gauges of older traditional hats ran 7–8 stitches per inch. Modern versions run 5.5–8 stitches per inch. Gauge should be measured in the round prior to working the hat to ensure proper fit. A speed swatch can be substituted for a gauge swatch in the round. The speed swatch is worked by casting on enough stitches for a five-inch swatch based on the multiple of the stitch pattern being used for measurement. The colored yarns and patterns are worked across the swatch and cut when the last stitch on the left end is worked. The work is slid back to the beginning of the right side and the next row is worked and cut at the end of the row. This is repeated until about five inches is worked. The swatch is then blocked and gauge can be measured.
Colors and Motifs
Patterns for Scandinavian colorwork hats are charted, and the knitter should be able to work from a stranded color chart. Charts will vary, with some using symbols to represent the colors and others using colored blocks to represent the colors. Stitch symbols may be present to indicate decreases or other types of shaping.
Traditional colors were limited, and often only two colors were used. Black or grey and white were common. Green and red could be used together, and sometimes white was added. One pattern that stands out is the use of red, white or cream, and blue in the Bjarbo patterns traditional to the Halland region of Sweden. These patterns were often used along the outer brim with small peerie-like patterns used for the remainder of the hat. Below is a chart showing the traditional Bjarbo brim pattern.
The hat is portioned into several three- to four-inch sections, and while the body of the hat can vary in length, the hat is traditionally ended by working a checkerboard pattern while decreasing at the end of each section on every round. The top of the hat appears as spiraling wedges of checkerboard ending in a point.
Many modern versions use a large Nordic repeating star or other large, distinctly Nordic motif along the outside brim, creating the focus of the hat. The brim tends to be very wide at four to even five inches. The inner brim and main hat are worked in small to medium traditional Nordic patterns. Today’s hats are worked in contemporary colors.
The tops of modern-styled hats end in a similar fashion to the traditional. Zigzag patterns may replace the checkerboard, but the hat is still decreased on every round, creating spiraling wedges and ending in a point.
Yarn dominance should be considered when working Scandinavian color patterns. There is typically a definite background color which should be secondary to the other colors. There may be instances when three colors are worked on one row. It’s important to remember to carry yarns to avoid long floats. And the knitter should also remember the order of dominance for the three colors. Keeping the yarns in order will prevent them from becoming twisted.
Tassel
A distinctive part of the hat is the addition of a tassel to the outer hat. The tassel hangs about two inches from the top on a braided strand. It can be made longer if desired.
To make a tassel:
- Cut a winding board from heavy card stock, cardboard, or foam core. The board should be 2 times as long as the desired length of the tassel.
- Tightly wind the yarn around the board to 1/2 the desired width.
- Lay a long piece of yarn on a work surface.
- Remove the wound yarn from the board and place on top of the yarn on the work surface.
- Tie the bottom yarn around the wound yarns.
- Fold the wound yarns in half with the tie at the top.
- Cut through the looped ends and form into a tassel.
- Cut another yarn and wind it around the top end leaving a small section at the top. Wrap the yarn slowly working from the top downward.
- Tie off and tuck all ends into the head of the tassel.
- Use the initial tie off threads to attach the tassel.
- Extra yarns can be added to the top and braided to create a sturdy strand from tassel to hat top.
For more information on how to make a tassel refer to this article in the Special Topics in Finishing Series by Donna Estin: Tassels and Fringe.
If you’re looking for a hat that is both warm and beautiful, the dubbelmössa is an excellent choice. With its unique double-layered construction, intricate stranded motifs, and rich historical roots, the dubbelmössa exemplifies both function and artistry. Today’s dubbelmössa knitters benefit from advancements in wool quality and a broader palette of colors, as well as modern notions and needles. Whether using traditional colorways and motifs or exploring contemporary hues and patterns, knitters embark on a journey that connects them to a rich Swedish knitting heritage.
Bibliography
Johansson Brittia and Nilsson, Kersti. Binge: en halländsk sticktradition. Stockholm: LT. 1980. Accessed at Internet Archive.
Schurch, Charlene. Hats on!: 31 Warm and Winsome Caps for Knitters. Camden: Down East Books, 1999.
Swansen, Meg. Handknitting With Meg Swansen. Edited by Chris Swansen. Pittsville: Schoolhouse Press, 1995.
Lind, Vibeke. Knitting in the Nordic Tradition. Ashville: Lark Books, 1981.
McGregor, Sheila. Traditional Scandinavian Knitting. Mineola: Dover Publications, 2004.
Pattern Associated with Article — Three Gardens
Copyright 2024, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Winter 2023-2024, All Rights Reserved
