Baby Fingers Blanket By Leslie Gonzalez

Baby Fingers Blanket By Leslie Gonzalez

5-bulky02-easy

blanket-cropBeyond the Pattern

This is the second pattern in the series exploring Open Selvedge Treatments and accompanies the article on Picot Selvedges. The project is a baby-sized blanket worked on the bias in a diamond shape, or point-to-point, making the project edges mainly selvedges with only a few cast-on and bound-off stitches. The blanket can be made larger or smaller by working more or fewer repeats of the two center sections. Changing the size of the blanket will change the yarn requirement. Bulky yarn makes the project move a little quicker and I’ve chosen a yarn that is superwash, making it more child-friendly although I always recommend hand washing hand knits to ensure that the integrity of the fabric is maintained. Hand washing allows you to be more gentle with the item and also prevents any inadvertent snagging of the stitches.

Size

One size

Finished Measurements

Width: Point to point: 46”
Length: Point to point: 56”

Materials

Cascade Yarns 128 SUPERWASH (128yds/117m, 100g/3.5oz, 100% superwash Merino wool): 5 skeins #841 Moss
Size 10 (6mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Interlocking stitch marker (optional)
Tapestry needle

Gauge

In St st, 10 sts & 20 rows = 4”/10cm. To save time, take time to check gauge.

Abbreviations

S2kp – Central double decrease: slip two stitches together, k1, pass the two slipped stitches over.
K3tog – Knit 3 sts together.

Special Techniques

Cable Cast On: Make a slip knot leaving a 5” tail. Place the slip knot on the left needle. Insert the tip of the right needle into the front leg of the slip knot, knitwise. Wrap the yarn to make a stitch and pull through the slip knot with the right needle, making sure to stretch the yarn to create a large loop. Place the stitch on the left needle by inserting the needle from right to left through the loop. * Insert the tip of the right needle between the next two stitches on the left needle. Wrap the yarn to make a stitch and pull through with the right needle, making sure to stretch the yarn to create a large loop. Place the stitch on the left needle by inserting the needle from right to left through the loop.  This Video shows the technique.
Work picot: *Insert the tip of the right needle between the next two stitches on the left needle. Wrap the yarn to make a stitch and pull through with the right needle, making sure to stretch the yarn to create a large loop. Place the stitch on the left needle by inserting the needle from right to left through the loop. Work from * two more times. 3 sts cast on. Immediately bind off these three stitches.

blanket2

Blanket Directions

Using the cable cast on, CO 7 sts. BO 3 sts. Sl the st on the right needle back to the left needle, then cont to use the cable cast on, CO 2 sts – 6 sts.
TECHNICAL TIP—This is a simple version of the picot cast on which creates one picot centered on the six stitches. To bind off the three sts: knit two stitches as if you were starting a new row. Pull the first stitch over the second as in a typical chain bind off. Knit the next stitch and pull the first over. Repeat this last step one more time. There will be four stitches, three on the left needle and one on the right that was used to bind off the third stitch. Slip the stitch on the right needle back to the left needle and cable cast on 2 more sts for a total of 6 cast on stitches with a picot pointing down.

Part 1: Lower Half

Section 1:
Setup Rows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, k3 – 7 sts.
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, k1, yo, k to end – 9 sts.
Row 4: Work picot, knit to end.
TECHNICAL TIP—Reading your work: At this point it can be hard to tell the RS from the WS. You can place an interlocking stitch marker into the fabric to mark the RS. You can also look at the stitches on the needle. Look at the fourth stitch on the needle: if you see a yarn over, then you know you just finished a RS row. If there is no yarn over, then you just finished a WS row. If you see a picot at either end close to the needle then you know you just worked a row involving a picot. If there is not a picot directly next to the needle, then you know you worked a row that did not use a picot.
Continue Section 1:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k3.
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k3.
Row 4: Work picot, knit to end.
Rep these 4 rows four more times – 29 sts.
Section 2
Transition Rows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, k9, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k9, yo, k3.
Row 2 (WS): K14, p3, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, k9, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k9, yo, k3.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, p5, knit to end – 33 sts.
Continue Section 2:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, k9, k2 tog, yo, knit until 14 sts rem, yo, ssk, k9, yo, k3.
Row 2: (WS): K14, purl until 14 sts rem, k 14.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, k9, k2 tog, yo, knit until 14 sts rem, yo, ssk, k9, yo, k3.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, purl until 14 sts rem, k14.
Rep these 4 rows three more times – 49 sts.
TECHNICAL TIP—Reading your work/counting rows: Place an interlocking stitch marker in the first picot of each section to allow you to count how many repeats have been worked in that section.
TECHNICAL TIPS—Reading your work: As you continue to divide for the sections, let the yarn overs be your guide. On RS rows – except for the very first and last four stitches – each section is worked k9, k2tog, yo; and after the center section, they are worked yo, ssk, k9. On the WS rows, it is a little less obvious; but again, let the yarn overs show you where to change stitch patterns. At the beginning of the row, each of the main sections contains 11 stitches, the new section begins with the yarn over. The center section will use both the first and last yarn over. After the center section, each of the main sections will again contain 11 stitches, but here the section will end using the yarn over. It’s helpful to count these smaller sections on both RS and WS rows to be sure you didn’t miss a decrease or yarn over.  Stop frequently to be sure your pattern is correct. The yarn overs should move continuously in diagonal lines. The third section (garter stitch) should have a diagonal “chain” visible below the yarn overs on both sides.
Section 3
Transition Rows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, k9, k2 tog, yo, knit until 14 sts rem, yo, ssk, k9, yo, k3 – 51 sts.
Row 2: (WS): K14, purl until 14 sts rem, k14.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, (k9, k2tog, yo) twice, k1 (yo, ssk, k9) twice, yo, k3 – 53 sts.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, p11, k3, p11, knit to end.
Continue Section 3:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, (k9, k2tog, yo) twice, knit until 25 sts rem, (yo, ssk, k9) twice, yo, k3.
Row 2 (WS): K14, p11, knit until 25 sts rem, p11, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, (k9, k2tog, yo) twice, knit until 25 sts rem, (yo, ssk, k9) twice, yo, k3.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, p11, knit until 25 sts rem, p11, knit to end.
Rep these 4 rows four more times – 73 sts.
Section 4
Transition Rows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, (k9, k2tog, yo) three times, k1, (yo, ssk, k9) three times, yo, k3.
Row 2 (WS): K14, p11, knit until 25 sts remain, p11, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, (k9, k2tog, yo) three times, k3, (yo, ssk, k9) three times, yo, k3.
Row 4: Work picot, k12, p11, k11, p3, k11, p11, knit to end – 77 sts.
Continue Section 4:
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, (k9, k2tog, yo) three times, knit until 36 sts rem, (yo, ssk, k9) three times, yo, k3.
Row 2 (WS): K14, p11, k11, purl until 36 sts rem, k11, p11, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k2, yo, (k9, k2tog, yo) three times, knit until 36 sts rem, (yo, ssk, k9) three times, yo, k3.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, p11, k11, purl until 36 sts rem, k11, p11, knit to end.
Rep these 4 rows thirteen more times – 133 sts.
DESIGNER NOTE—The size of the blanket can be made smaller or larger by working fewer or more repeats of Section 4. Changing the size of the blanket will change the yarn requirements.
TECHNICAL TIP—Joining yarn: Because we are spotlighting the selvedges and the piece will not be seamed, do not join a new yarn at the start of a row, but rather start the new yarn within one of the stitch patterns, preferably away from a yarn over. To weave in the ends, cross the tails and duplicate stitch the tails to match the stitch pattern.

blanket5Part 2: Upper Half

Section 1:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo, (k9, ssk, yo) three times, k2 tog, knit until 39 sts rem, ssk, (yo, k2tog, k9) three times, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 2 (WS): K14, p11, k11, purl until 36 sts rem, k11, p11, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k1, ssk, yo, (k9, ssk, yo) three times, k2 tog, knit until 39 sts rem, ssk, (yo, k2tog, k9) three times, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, p11, k11, purl until 36 sts rem, k11, p11, knit to end.
Rep these 4 rows thirteen more times – 77 sts.
Transition Rows:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo, (k9, ssk, yo) three times, k2 tog, knit until 39 sts rem, ssk, (yo, k2tog, k9) three times, yo, k2tog, k2 – 75 sts.
Row 2 (WS): K14, p11, k11, purl until 36 sts rem, k11, p11, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k1, ssk, yo, (k9, ssk, yo) three times, knit until 40 sts rem?, s2kp, (yo, k2tog, k9) three times, yo, k2tog, k2 – 73 sts.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, p11, knit until 36 sts rem, k11, p11, knit to end.
Section 2:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo, (k9, ssk, yo) twice, k2tog, knit to last 28 sts, ssk, (yo, k2tog, k9) twice, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 2 (WS): K14, p11, knit to the last, 25 sts, p11, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k1, ssk, yo, (k9, ssk, yo) twice, k2tog, knit to last 28 sts, ssk, (yo, k2tog, k9) twice, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, p11, knit to last 25 sts, p11, knit to end.
Rep these 4 rows four more times – 53 sts.
Transition Rows:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo (k9, ssk, yo) twice, s2kp, (yo, k2tog, k9) twice, yo, k2tog, k2 – 53 sts.
Row 2 (WS): K14, purl until 14 sts rem, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k1, ssk, yo, k9, ssk, yo, k2tog, knit until 17 sts rem, ssk, yo, k2tog, k9, yo, k2tog, k2 – 51 sts.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, purl to last 14 sts, knit to end.
Section 3:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo, k9, ssk, yo, k2tog, knit to last 17 sts, ssk, yo, k2tog, k9, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 2 (WS): K14, purl until 14 sts rem, knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k1, ssk, yo, k9, ssk, yo, k2tog, k to last 17 sts, ssk, yo, k2tog, k9, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 4: Work picot, k13, purl to last 14 sts, knit to end.
Rep these 4 rows three more times – 35 sts.
Transition Rows:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo, k9, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k2tog, k9, yo, k2tog, k2 – 33 sts.
Row 2 (WS): K14, purl until 14 sts remain, knit to end.
Row 3: K2, ssk, yo, k9, ssk, yo, s2kp, yo, k2tog, k9, yo, k2tog, k2 – 31 sts.
Row 4: Work picot, knit to end.
Section 4:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k1, ssk, yo, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 4: Work picot, knit to end.
Rep these 4 rows four more times – 11 sts.
End:
Row 1 (RS): K2, ssk, yo, s2kp, yo, k2tog, k2 – 9 sts.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to end.
Row 3: Work picot, k1 ssk, yo, k3tog, k2 – 7 sts.
Row 4: Work picot, k3, k2tog, k1 – 6 sts.

Bind Off

BO 2 sts, CO 3 sts, BO the three sts just cast on; 4 sts are on the left needle and one on the right. Slip one st from the left needle to the right and bind it off. BO rem sts. Secure tail through rem loop.

Finishing

Weave in ends and block.

Article Associated with Pattern — Open-Edged Selvedges

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Copyright 2017, The Knitting Guild Association, Cast On Summer 2017, All Rights Reserved

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